Surf Basics

We advise to test the Surfboard out a few times on an almost flat sea, without wind or current, in order to acquire a good rowing technique before going into serious waves. The ideal is a dozen sessions in waves as high as the knee and on a big board: guaranteed success.

Try to be accompanied by a confirmed Surfer during your first steps or ask Surfers on the GONG forum.

Never start in the crowd or on a overcrowded peak. You could be a hazard and dangerous to others. It is imperative to know how to maneuver, be precise and have a good balance before attempting to maneuver your way through a crowd.

Depending on your size and the board you have, it may be that the first times are you’re more in the water than in the air! On a longboard, you are sure to succeed in minutes.

Relativize the size of your board: an 8 ‘is a normal board, a 7’ is a technical board, a 6’4 is an expert board, a 5’9 is for the elite. And yes, unfortunately, it takes volume and length to be comfortable and performing in Surf.

Remember that it is better to have fun on a board that’s too big than have a hard time on an awesome looking shortboard. You will not gain anything in performance and it can quickly become a nightmare while this sport is supposed to be fun in great conditions.

Do not surf without leash. It is obligatory. It can be an embarrassing accessory but it allows you not to lose your board, and especially not to hurt others (surfers but also bathers). Whatever your level, think of others and surf with a leash.

Wax your board seriously to gain balance. Without wax, it is the castrating fall assured. And you will never progress without firm support. Wax up before launching a new board that’s 8’0 with at least a ¼ of a bar of wax before each session.

Do not wax your rails otherwise you will have a hard time going from sitting to lying down. And hello irritations in your shorts !!! You can wax a few key areas to better hold and recover your board (tail). This one is serious, be sure to have all chance on your side so that it does not get away from you, in particular back to land! But not in  excesses 😉

Attach your leash to your back leg. Firmly but not over tight. Check that it is in good condition,  if not the lifeguard will have work to do!

Your weight should be centered around the middle of the board, according to the distribution of its volume. A good clue is that the nose must graze the water when you paddle. Paddling bucked is always a mistake, even if you leave in late take off.

Tighten your legs when paddling. Your board is guided with your thighs and knees during take off. You must have the weight well forward to get down the slope, and it is the management of the board under the thighs that will get you charging. To push harder arch you back more.

Always keep the torso bent in gorilla mode. You will often fall because your torso is too vertical. Use your arms and shoulders to widen your breadth.

Once standing, your feet should be at least shoulder width apart, depending on your comfort. The more your feet are spread, the more balance you have but the less agile and elegant you’ll be.

Having duck feet allows a better rotation of the torso. Just like tucking your knees forward, and slightly bowed.

By the way, are you goofy or regular stance???

Your legs should be bent, and your pelvis should act as a shock absorber. Dissociate the work the lower body does from that of the top.

Your back foot is mobile. Generally, the front foot is fixed or almost, except on a longboard. It is the back foot that will move if needed. Do not hesitate to walk to balance and feel the board.

Do not run forward or backwards for it causes imbalance. For that, keep your margins open. Never be completely straight up or curved over on your board. Always keep an attitude that allows you a rebalancing margin before and/or after movements.

Remember that the ideal is to have 80% of your weight towards the front foot (in the center of the board) and 20% in the back foot. When you want to turn,  you will change this distribution by a transfer of supports that will charge the rear.

To turn, press left or right. But do not move the front foot. If the board is very wide, you can move the back foot to bring it closer to the rail. But it’s a bad solution. The good thing is to move backwards. And to go back you have to keep weight over the front foot (80%).

If the board rears up and becomes unstable, it is because you are too far back on it.

Protect yourself in case of a fall. Always put your hands and arms in front of your face and head. One day or another it will save you from multiple stitches.

Protect others: do not go jump on waves with others and stick to priorities. And if you have priority, you still have to avoid the collision. So, do not aim towards others, do not go flying by them tell them they’re in the way……

Do not pull on your leash, not even when waves are passing over you (risk of breaking your fingers), or to pull the Board back to you (risk of collision with the Fins is high if it comes back too fast).

 

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