Your first hour on a surfboard

Never Surf alone, surfing is an adventure but it is often better lived with a friend or in a school. Certainly, the passage through a school breaks down the myth of lone wolf surfer but you will find there really passionate teachers who will pass the virus on to you. They will also save you time with your learning curve and you can connect with other budding surfers. Remember that waves can be dangerous, even small waves. Twisting an ankle while jumping from the board is common among beginners. So, we go out only when we are sure not to put ourselves in danger. Ask for advice. It’s poorly viewed to be sitting on the peak spouting off at the mouth waiting for the show to start. Surfing is an individual sport of individualists ;-))) Regardless of that it is better to ask than to be out there flailing around. You must know that surfing is a ‘forced sharing of a limited resource’. Per hour there are X number of good waves. Everyone wants them. So, we will have to determine an order of succession. It will be created based on skill level and rights of priority. From this unstoppable meteorological data flows a state of mind somewhere between the starvation and the total frustration hahahaha. That’s surfing. You will always want more and others will too. So, we will have to learn to share and to earn our share of the cake. What saves beginners in this story is that they do not need good waves at first. It’s always better, but not essential. Be discreet. Surfing is a communion with nature, not a party. Stay cool, simple, sober, efficient. Do not play the fool in front of others. This is often why so many people do not start surfing: the fear of embarrassment. Just tell yourself it’s that guys turn. Stay out of peoples way, and you’ll be fine. In order to do that, it’s simple: keep your eyes open wide. Observation is your best teacher. You can / must spend hours watching. So you can  learn by imprinting and copying what you see others doing on the spot. It’s a well-oiled machine : the good guys do it like that, the 80% of other as well, and the beginners they progress….. slowly 😉 Come on, let’s put the wetsuit on correctly, we wax the deck and not the hull, and go go go, but most importantly let’s do it discretly….;-) Click here to read everything that is said about this topic.