Enter the water

The golden rule: never put the board between you and the oncoming wave. Otherwise you’ll be on the operation table redoing your nose!!! Do not drag it by the leash, you will loose your fingers one day or the other. The board should remain next to you. And you should be holding it by the rails. As soon as there is enough water under you and the first broken waves are past, you  get on it and paddle. Watch out for Shorebreaks that can break your board in half just like your self-esteem 😉