Surfboards

The term "retro" shouldn’t be seen as pejorative. These shapes borrow heavily from the past and represent a significant chapter in surfing history. They are simply designs that might appear unconventional but have been entirely reimagined and modernized.

These boards come in various forms: compact fish-style boards, mid-length boards, or even longboards. There isn’t a single specific shape but rather a multitude of designs reflecting the diverse paths shapers have taken over the decades. While some shapes may seem atypical, they have undeniably proven their worth.

For Beginners? Sure, but only if the length and volume are well-suited. Generally, though, a retro board won’t be your first surfboard. It’s more likely to complement an existing board or quiver. Retro boards have their own unique character, and starting on a more classic-shaped board will help you better understand and enjoy a retro design later. So, while you don’t need to be an expert to ride one, gaining some initial experience on a Malibu or an evolution board is recommended.

For Advanced Surfers? A seasoned surfer will often choose a retro board to make the most of conditions their shortboard can’t handle, such as small or weak waves. Retro boards are typically added to complement existing boards—be it a high-performance shortboard or a longboard.

The goal is often to find a shape that excels in mediocre conditions, adopt a more relaxed surfing style far removed from the performance-oriented world tour approach, or explore the rich history of surfing in a practical and enjoyable way.

There are countless reasons to opt for a retro surfboard.

Retro boards share common traits like easy paddling and fluidity in turns. They feature generous volume in the nose, which makes paddling and taking off in weak waves much easier. While the tails vary, most smaller retro boards have wider tails, ensuring speed and drive. So, the first reason to choose a retro shape is for its comfort and ease of use.

These shapes offer a laid-back yet fast surfing style. If you’re looking to try a new approach or experience different sensations, retro boards are a perfect choice.

A retro board can save a session where a classic shortboard would fail, especially in small, inconsistent waves. Their generous design focuses on making surfing as easy and effective as possible, allowing you to hit the water more often and maximize challenging conditions.

Surfing a retro board is also one of the best ways to break the monotony and rediscover your favorite spot with a fresh perspective.

The Matata is a board with the qualities of a longboard. Fast and stable when paddling, its wide tail provides an unparalleled glide speed. Even in 50cm waves, it quickly regains speed after a sharp turn. Its originality and performance largely come from its planing hull, which gives it incredible speed. Designed exclusively for small waves, with a maximum size of head-high.

The Impératrice: This ultra-compact Fish model offers a fast and smooth surfing experience. A short yet very comfortable shape for its size. A wide fish tail provides plenty of natural speed and strong accelerations. Very thin rails in the rear third ensure excellent control and drive. The Impératrice’s surf style is fluid, whether carving on the shoulder or locking into the pocket!

The Pie is also great in small conditions, but its tail provides better grip in more powerful waves. Every shortboarder should have this type of board in their quiver. A distinctive surf style that emphasizes smooth, flowing curves.

The Carter are the most versatile boards. Despite sharing the same name, from 5’6 to 9’8, each size has a different feel and purpose. The smaller sizes have a pronounced shortboard character, aimed at lightweight or skilled surfers looking to complement their quiver with a board more forgiving than their usual shortboard.

• The 6’8 and 7’3 are highly versatile. The 6’8 is tailored for softer waves, with a tail that retains width and finishes with a pin tail for precision in turns and rail control. The 7’3 is suited for all types of waves. Slightly longer than the 6’8, it handles punchier conditions well, serving as a step-up board that allows for early wave entry.
• The 7’8 is perfect for larger surfers seeking an easy board with a unique glide style—fast and efficient in any condition.
• The two largest sizes, 9’0 and 9’8, are called Cruisers. They are often mistaken for guns, used in big waves, but that’s not the case. These boards are ideal for those wanting to catch waves from as far out as a longboard but aren’t particularly interested in noseriding.

One of the key benefits of the Carter range, beyond their character, is their fin configuration flexibility. You can ride them as a single for a smooth and pure glide, as a 2+1 for combining single-fin glide with the performance of a thruster, or as a thruster for a more radical ride.

A common question is which board to choose for small or weak conditions. Many surfers hesitate between the Matata, the Pie, and the Fork, often as a complement to a shortboard.

The Matata is a small board that can be used in conditions where you’d typically ride a longboard, but the ride is completely different. It accelerates quickly right from the takeoff, providing immediate speed and drive. Your back foot naturally positions itself near the tail, making it easy to carve turns using the tail corner and the keel fin. It’s the fastest board of the three, making it perfect for small to medium waves, especially when tackling fast, closing sections or waves lacking power. A shape every surfer should try at least once in their life. It’s a true alternative to a longboard and surprisingly easy to ride for its size, even if you’re not used to shortboards.

The Impératrice falls somewhere between the Matata and the Pie. It inherits much of the Matata’s acceleration and natural speed while incorporating the Pie’s ability to draw clean lines and maintain drive through turns.

The Pie is a traditional yet modernized fish. It won’t accelerate as quickly as the Matata but still offers plenty of speed. The keel fin setup makes carving smooth and effortless. The fin placement is quite centered, allowing easy transitions from rail to rail without requiring much force.

In any case, there’s no wrong choice among these three boards, as they are all well-suited for conditions where a shortboard underperforms. The main difference lies in the riding feel:

• The Matata for speed, ease of handling fast sections, and the shortest possible ride.
• The Pie for a balance of speed and maneuverability.

We recommend opting for a board with ample volume, as volume is rarely a disadvantage in these types of conditions.

Typically, you’ll want a leash that matches the length of your board or is just slightly shorter. For example, a 7’ leash for a 7’2 board. The advertised lengths refer to the cord itself, but keep in mind that the attachments add extra length. Plus, the leash stretches under tension, giving you some leeway before your board comes flying back at you.

A properly sized leash, meaning a short one, provides less protection from board recoil but offers several advantages:

• Faster paddling and surfing: The difference is remarkable.
• Quicker board recovery, which means you can get past the break faster.
• Reduced interference with others, as your "nuisance radius" is smaller.

Just try using a 10’ leash on a 5’6 board to see what we mean! ;-)

It’s only in very large waves that longer leashes become necessary—outside the scope here.

Diameter is also key: thinner leashes let you move faster but are more prone to snapping in head-high or larger waves.

Finally, replace your leash every year. It’s annoying, but think of it as your life vest. Without it, you'd have to surf wearing a certified life jacket (not really, but you get the point!).

No session without wax!

When you get a new board, you’ll need two bars of wax. The first layer is a base coat wax, designed to create a durable bond between the board and the functional wax (the one that grips your feet). To apply this, you need to build a thick base coat with wax bumps by rubbing gently in a dry, moisture-free environment.

Once the base coat is applied, use the second bar of wax, which should match the water temperature of your surf spot. Follow this technique to properly wax your board:

This method helps you save wax, as you’ll need half as much in the following months. That said, make sure to apply a little wax (about ¼ of a bar) before each session to maintain the same level of grip.

The question of whether to add pads often comes down to aesthetics and making your board look cool. But what might seem like a decorative feature for non-pros is actually a valuable tool.

If surfing is "the art of placement," then correctly placing your feet on the board is crucial. And what better way to ensure this than with a tactile marker that says: "Okay, I’m in the sweet spot for this turn."

Forty years ago, this marker came from the dents naturally formed underfoot on PU boards. But let’s be honest, that’s a bit outdated, right? Love it or not, it’s a personal choice.

If the idea of dents feels like a medieval solution, you could try waxing only the sweet spots… but be prepared for some serious splits! Sure, it looks sleek and pro, but you’re seriously risking your lineage.

Adding proper pads is therefore essential. They guide your feet to the right position.

But you also need to stick them on correctly—and trust me, people get creative here.

Place the pad just in front of the leash plug! In other words, as far back as it can go. That’s where you’ll feel the magic:

• Foot on the flat part of the pad for smooth, easy turns.
• Foot on the kicker for explosive moves or popping reverses.
• Foot in front of the pad to lock in a barrel.

It’s super simple!

The fins provided with our boards are sufficient to use them properly.

However, since 50% of a board's performance comes from the fins, a pro surfer will undoubtedly want to adjust the fin setup to suit their body type, style, and preferences.

Some fins enhance speed, others turns, and others acceleration, etc. You can find detailed descriptions on their individual product pages—perfect reading material for a campfire evening!

To summarize:

• Boards designed for acceleration: Typically fish shapes, large swallows, and bigger Simmons are often set up as twins with beautiful keel fins or as quads for modern variations. These fins promote speed by strongly aligning the rail with its trajectory.
• Maneuverable boards with round tails are often equipped with a thruster setup, 2+1 (two side fins and an adjustable central US fin), or a twin if the hull includes channels to guide water flow.
• Gunny boards with pinched tails are set up as singles for pure lines or thrusters for better maneuverability. The 2+1 setup (two side fins and an adjustable central US fin) remains the premium option as it offers versatility.
• Mini longboards are often singles for pure lines (though with limited performance) or thrusters for added maneuverability (but this diverges from their intended use). The 2+1 setup remains ideal for maximizing the potential of these smaller longboards.

A 2+1 setup consists of two smaller side fins and a larger central fin. It’s commonly found on many mid-length surfboards or longboards because it offers an excellent balance between the maneuverability of a thruster and the stability of a single fin. To put it simply 😉, you can fine-tune this balance by adjusting the central fin’s position as explained below.

Adjusting Your 2+1 Setup

While the smaller side fins are fixed in their boxes, the central fin can be adjusted along its US box. Although the standard rail of this box offers a wide range of settings, for a 2+1 setup, everything depends on a 2 cm range.

The base of the leading edge of the central fin in a 2+1 setup should be positioned 0 to 2 cm from the tips of the side fins. Use a straight edge or a taut string to verify the central fin’s position relative to these tips.

• At 0 cm separation, you maximize maneuverability.
• At 2 cm separation, as shown in the diagram above, you focus on greater stability for smoother control.

To understand this adjustment better, think of it like the wheelbase of a skateboard. Reducing the distance between the front and rear wheel axles results in a very agile skateboard that can turn on the spot. For relaxed cruising on a downhill skateboard, a longer wheelbase provides greater stability.

If you mount larger side fins with more rearward tips, you’ll also need to move the central fin back. This is a universal rule.

Optimizing Your 2+1 Setup

• A larger central fin stabilizes the board and extends turns.
• Larger side fins enhance speed during turns.
  It’s a balancing act: having both oversized central and side fins is excessive and will make your board unmanageable.

Central Fin Sizes

• For 2+1 setups: 6’’ to 9’’, with 7’’ as the standard reference.
• For single fins: 8’’ to 11’’, with 10’’ as the standard reference.

Material Matters

The material of the fins is the most critical factor after their shape. Fiber fins are essential. Rigidity is the key to good fins. As you upgrade, aim for greater rigidity. Note that fiber fins are also easily repairable if damaged, for example, from hitting a rock.