HOW TO : PADDLE IN SURF !!!

It’s a bit like the swimming pool but not completely ?
First we get ourselves on our Board.
Your weight should be around in the middle of the board, and in accordance to the distribution of its volume. A good indicator is that the nose must be grazing out the water when you paddle. Paddling with the nose reared up is a mistake even if you’re leaving in a late take off.
Tighten your legs when paddling. Your board is guided with your thighs and knees during take-off. You must have your weight forward in order to get down the slope easier, and it is the management of the board under the thighs that will help you charge. To push harder : arch your back.
Then you have to paddle one arm after another. Never both at the same time, or rarely, like on big traditional longboards for style.
It’s not like crawling, because you’re on a board that carries you. You must therefore arch the upper back to force less on the shoulders and tighten up the body to limit unnecessary movements.
It’s grueling, do not worry if you feel like dying after 100m ?
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