Late take-off

To say that the late take off is a hasty take off is true, and kinda false. Certainly, it is no longer a question of looking at seagulls, but taking one’s time is indispensable. First to get the board on the wave slope and pop up at the right time. Then to get on the board exactly where it needs to be on the wave to immediately move into to the next action: the bottom turn. Because the urgency does not concern only the take off. As always in surfing the key is to have done a thousand. Some surfers are more talented doing it than the others, those who surf hollow waves because they have a complex equation to solve: to have volume to leave before the unmanageable hollow and to have a minimum of volume to hold the board in the slope … Surfer : Malo on his GONG Surf Chemical PU Made In La France.