Going outside

So now you’re paddling : do not stop otherwise you will have to redo everything. If the foam is low : get over it by lifting the nose of the board a little by a slight downwards pressure from the knees. If it’s higher : get on your hands when the foam comes in and use them as if you were using a pump. If it’s big: make sure there is no one behind and let go of everything to dive under the wave. On a Shortboard the ideal is to duckdive. On a big board you will have to turtle.