SUP boards

Inherited from traditional surfboards called longboards, Noserider SUP boards take up all the codes and history of this type of surfing in its own right.

The glide of these boards is made up of two main categories, the classic glide and the modern glide.

The so-called classic glide which echoes a certain tradition, a fluid glide, all in style, without sudden movements, by alternating movements on the board, in order to spend as much time as possible at the nose of the board. These are typically so-called displacement boards that we will use, boards that slide on the water.

Modern gliding refers to moves borrowed from the shortboard, tight turns, verticality and other aerials. Basically, surfing exactly like a shortboard, but with a 9′ board under your feet. These are typically so-called planing boards that we will use in this case, boards that plane on the water.

But these two worlds are not closed by an airtight border, quite the contrary, some boards are versatile enough to offer all the possible repertoire. Others will be more specialized in a particular area. It is in this graduation that you will find the board that suits you best.

First to exploit small waves and soft waves. The phenomenal glide of these boards allows you to take crazy pleasure in almost non-existent waves. This meets both the needs of surfers in less exposed spots, and the needs of not staying dry on the beach on days with light conditions on good spots. In short: essential.

To progress. Feeling how to place a longboard in the energy of the wave to get the most out of it is essential. Working on your balance and positioning while moving on the board is also essential. And adding the hours of surfing in addition to the beautiful days allows you to keep in shape and feel the whole of what the ocean has to offer.

Diehards know that walking, noseriding, doing a nice cutty and starting over is an incredibly satisfying music. No need to tell them about the benefits of these boards and this glide ?

The shapes of the first SUP boards were based on longboard shapes. And this is what has seduced and which still seduces a large majority of those who take up SUP: a length which allows an unequaled speed of movement, the possibility of catching a wave and surfing it without struggling. The length, the shape of these boards make them perfect SUPs for everyday use. It’s stable, easy, and you can go for a walk to alternate with surf sessions. This is the original recipe that made the success SUP.

It’s simple, for everyone. Because noseriders are a world of their own. From the beginner’s board to that of the hyper sharp purist, we offer the complete spectrum. First in the shapes, then in the sizes per shape since adding volume also simplifies things.

So a beginner will immediately feel comfortable because of the length which ensures a good rowing speed that’s also easy to keep in a straight line. All that remains is to choose the right width to be sufficiently stable so that the pleasure/performance ratio is ideal. A minimum width of 30 is a good benchmark for a beginner. It is a board that is self-sufficient, that is to say that you can do almost everything with a single board, walk around, learn to surf.

A confirmed SUPer will have no limits, he will just have to draw from the different styles of surfing offered. You may want length simply for glide, for comfort and ease. We can also want to focus everything on the nose ride. You can like a modern board that carves, or prefer a board with 50/50 rails for maximum glide.

NFA

The NFA is the most versatile. Both in the tricks because it has a tail that planes fast that allows you to crush a roller, maintain speed or even accelerate from the tail. It is an excellent board for learning Stand Up Paddle, but it is also and above all a board with infinite possibilities. From your very first take off, to the most technical moves like 360°s.

NFA FSP2X: available in 5 sizes. (8’0, 9’0, 9’0XL, 10’0 et 10’0XL)

NFA FSP PRO: available in 8 sizes. (8’0, 9’0XS, 9’0, 9’0XL, 10’0XS, 10’0, 10’0XL and 12’0)

• The XS models are perfect for light builds and confirmed levels.
• The classic models are among GONG’s best sellers.
• The XL models have been created to facilitate the transition from an inflatable model to a rigid board, or for large riders looking for comfort.

A high-performance board that facilitates access to SUP in all conditions, whatever your level, your size, you will inevitably find an NFA that speaks to you.

• The 8’0 is perfect for the super advanced rider who only wants one board, a compact model, to ride small to medium waves. The glide of a longboard, the maneuverability and size of a shortboard.
• The 9’0 XS is aimed at lighter riders and a heavier skilled SUP rider.
• The 9’0 is the reference size, very versatile, a real longboard character.
• The 9’0 XL is both stable and very manoeuvrable, perfect for taller riders, or riders looking for stability.
• The 10’0 XS allows you to have the advantages of 10’0, while being fast and incisive.
• The 10’0 is perfect for surfing knee to shoulder size waves. Easy and early take off, excellent nose hold. An ideal size to mix surfing and riding.
• The 10′0 XL is ultra stable and reassuring, but retains its modern longboard program.
• The NFA 12’ for lovers of big boards, all in glide and curves, anode course an indecent rowing speed.

A hight performance board that facilitates access to SUP in all conditions, whatever your level, your size, you will inevitably find an NFA that speaks to you.

ZERO

The Zero is the most radical, it is simply has the behavior of a shortboard, but with the length of a longboard. A thin and fast tail that focuses on maneuverability. Its nose is the least buoyant of the range, but it is also what allows more radicality by having less swing, that is to say less weight at the front of the board. It is a board that likes hollow and fast waves to fully express itself. You will be able to surf it from a hip size to two man sizes and more, the only limit is you!

ZERO FSP PRO: available in 4 sizes from 8’5 to 12’.

• The 8’5 is perfect for those looking for the maneuverability of a SUP short, combined with the glide of a longboard thanks to its taut rocker.
• The 9’0 is the reference, versatile and without limits, a best-seller !
• The 10’0 for all those who want an ultra early entry into the wave.
• The 12’0 for lovers of big boards, all in glide and curves, and of course an indecent rowing speed !

We currently offer two technologies for our rigid SUP boards, FSP 2X and FSP Pro. The advantage of these two technologies is to offer a hull in full PVC sandwich. This extremely rigid, hydrophobic and solid shell surrounds the entire surface of the board.

FSP 2X

These boards are equipped with innovative technology for the best weight / solidity / performance compromise on the market.The addition of a biaxial fiberglass in addition to the PVC, greatly strengthens the board. It is by designing a new finishing technique, as close as possible to our prototypes made in our French factory that we have succeeded in saving weight. We work with tinted resins to avoid as much as possible the paint which loads the board unnecessarily. Dyed in the mass, your board gains in nobility and durability.

An affordable techno, even for beginners.

FSP Pro

Developed in our French workshop, the FSP Pro techno is just as solid as the FSP 2X techno. The addition of carbon allows this technology to save weight and dynamism. Perfect for advanced surfers looking for the best performance without compromise.

This technology offers an unmatchable strength/lightness ratio of a full sandwich PVC vacuum board with the top-notch advantages of carbon. A must-have techno for SUP veteran riders that want to have fun!

We are here in the longboard world, so in a world where moving around the board is part of the game. The central area of ​​these boards is a transition area. You go there either to go to the tail and drive your board from behind, to turn. Either to rush forward (in cross steps please!) to hold the nose with your toes. You will therefore understand that to facilitate these movements and avoid getting tangled in the cord, a knee leash is therefore essential.

We usually use a leash which is the length of the board or just below. For example a 9’ leash on a 9’2. Indeed, the lengths announced are those of the cord, with which must be added the fasteners. And the leash stretches under tension, so we have room before the board in the nose.

The diameter is also an important point: yes we go faster but we risk breaking it in an overhead wave. And at the end of the leash, with a noserider, don’t forget that there is volume, so a leash with a rope diameter of 7mm is the most common.

A custom made paddle will be more beneficial if you are more in the water to surf and you know the size of paddle that fits you well, usually this will be very close to your own size. A fixed paddle will be lighter, its flex will be evenly distributed along the shaft.

In surfing, we will use a paddle to size or even a little more. On a large board like the NFA 12′ you can use a paddle at + 10 cm, if on the contrary you are aiming for more aggressive surfing on a Zero 9′ for example, a paddle at your size will be much more suitable. Hand changes are faster, and remember that the radius of your turns is partly determined by the length of your paddle.

The fins that come with our boards are perfect for using them properly. But knowing that 50% of a board's performance comes from the fins, you'll definitely want to adjust the fin setup to your size, style, preferences, or simply to try something new...

Some fins favor speed, others improve turns, some boost acceleration, while others enhance nose hold, etc. There are detailed descriptions on their product pages.

Single fin: Between simplicity and technicality

Riding a single fin can be seen as both the simplest and most technical fin setup, depending on your approach to surfing and your personal preferences.

A single fin setup allows your board to generate speed effortlessly without having to "shift gears" like with multi-fin setups. It creates the least resistance and drag, making it the best option for those who enjoy pure, fluid gliding down the line.*

* Down the line refers to a diagonal trajectory, like an endless bottom turn in the middle of the wave that maintains a constant speed when perfectly optimized with the wave's energy and breaking pattern. It’s similar to skiing down a slope, except in surfing, the slope is short, requiring constant alternation between descending and climbing to sustain momentum—hence the expression "down the line."

However, if your goal is to make tight, aggressive turns, you'll need to be extremely precise with your positioning to stay in sync with the wave’s energy. Without side fins, you'll rely entirely on rail pressure, making single fin surfing highly technical. It demands experience and control, as gravity will be your only ally.

Single fin setups are often preferred for noseriders, where maximum glide is desired. A deep enough fin stabilizes the board’s tail high on the wave, giving surfers more time to stay on the nose.

2+1 setup

In a 2+1 setup, a larger center fin stabilizes the board and smooths out turns, while larger side fins generate more speed when carving. The key is balance—if both the center and side fins are too large, the board becomes overly stiff and difficult to maneuver.

Recommended fin sizes:

• 2+1 setup: Center fin between 6” and 9”
• Single fin setup: Center fin between 8” and 11” (with 7” and 10” being the most common sizes)

A 2+1 setup is the most versatile option, offering a good balance between control and hold, especially when putting the board on rail.

On performance longboards, it is possible to use a Thruster setup, just like on a shortboard, with three fins of the same size. This setup maximizes responsiveness and speed, making the board extremely lively and maneuverable. However, nose hold will be significantly reduced, which can lead to unintended 360° spins.

After the shape, fin material is the most crucial factor. Fiberglass fins are essential since stiffness is the key to high-performance fins. As you move up in quality, prioritize stiffer fins. Additionally, fiberglass fins can be easily repaired in case of damage, such as hitting a rock.

In a US fin box, the central fin can be adjusted forward or backward. The further forward the fin is, the more maneuverable the board becomes—but at the cost of control. The board may feel too loose, turning more than you intend. Conversely, moving the fin backward increases stability and control, keeping the board locked in on a rail, but making it harder to turn, almost feeling sluggish.

The ideal placement comes down to centimeter-level adjustments, depending on the board shape, fin shape, wave conditions, and most importantly, your surfing style. Your weight, stance, and pressure distribution in turns can all influence the feel. Experiment with different placements to find what works best for you.

Nowadays, it’s possible to equip your board with an FCS II central fin, eliminating the need for tools to install or adjust your fin. This saves time and ensures you won’t miss a session because you forgot a tool. Another benefit is that you can adjust your fin position in the water, allowing you to test different setups during your session.

To choose the most suitable fin for your surfing style, wave conditions, and preferences, it's essential to understand how each design element affects your board’s performance.

RAKE

• The rake refers to the backward curve of the fin—the distance between the base's rear edge and the fin’s tip. More rake means the tip extends closer to the tail of the board, making it ideal for experienced and powerful surfers who want long, drawn-out turns with maximum hold and drive. Drive refers to maintaining speed while holding a trajectory. A wide base helps retain speed, whereas a shorter base sacrifices some speed. Recommended for powerful waves.
• Less rake (a more upright fin) increases pivot, meaning tighter turns. This is ideal for quick, sharp maneuvers in weaker waves that lack power.
• Imagine steering a catamaran: with the rudders fully down, the boat turns sharply with little effort. If you tilt them at 45°, turning becomes harder and requires more force—this is the same principle as rake in fins.

BASE

• The base is the bottom section of the fin that connects to the board. A longer base provides more control and stability, enabling wide, smooth turns—perfect for powerful waves where hold is crucial.
• A shorter base allows for tighter turns and more tail release, making it ideal for slow, weak waves where maneuverability is key.
• Long base = More control, drawn-out turns.
• Short base = More pivot, quick acceleration, tighter turns.

DEPTH

Depth refers to the height of the fin from its base to the tip. A deeper fin provides stability and hold, particularly in powerful waves.

A shallower fin reduces drag, increasing speed and freeing up the tail. This makes it great for small conditions, where quick, loose turns are preferred.

SURFACE AREA

• More surface area = More control and stability. Recommended for beginners as it helps maintain balance.
• Less surface area = More responsiveness and playfulness under the back foot.

Surface distribution:

• In hollow, fast waves, go for fins with a thin tip and less surface area to reduce drag and maintain speed through turns.
• In slower waves, a wider tip increases maneuverability and responsiveness.

FLEX

Flex determines how much a fin bends and returns to its original shape.

• More flex = Softer turns, more forgiving for mistakes—great for intermediate surfers.
• Less flex (stiffer fins) = More control, power, and responsiveness. These require precise technique, making them better suited for experienced surfers.

A deep, narrow-tipped fin tends to have more flex, allowing for more dynamic turns.

To choose the most suitable fin, it’s important to understand how each parameter, which shapes the fin, will influence the behavior of your board.

RAKE

• The rake refers to the rear curve of the fin. It’s the distance between the end of the base and the tip of the trailing edge of the fin (the ear). The greater the rake, the closer the fin tip will be to the tail of your board. This is ideal for experienced and powerful surfers who want to make long, sweeping turns, with maximum grip and drive. Drive refers to the ability to hold a trajectory while maintaining speed. A fin with a wider base will help maintain speed, while a fin with a shorter base will offer less of it. This type of fin is recommended for more powerful waves.
  On the other hand, less rake (a straighter fin) means more pivot. Pivot refers to the ability to make tighter turns. This is ideal for tighter turns, so it’s perfect for waves that lack power.
  Imagine you’re at the helm of a catamaran with the rudders down—this will allow tight turns, requiring little pressure to steer. But lift the rudders at a 45° angle, and it’ll be much harder to make tight turns, requiring much more power.

BASE

• The base is the lower part of the fin, the part in contact with the board. A longer base offers more control and wider turns. It’s ideal in powerful waves where you want more grip and stability in your turns and trajectories.
  A shorter base offers more pivot, enabling tighter turns and freeing the tail. You’d choose this type of fin in slow waves where maneuverability is more important than control. The longer the base, the more control and wider turns the fin will give you. The shorter the base, the more pivot, maximum speed, and tight turns it will provide.

DEPTH

• The depth is the height between the base and the tip of your fin. The deeper it is, the more stability and grip you’ll get, especially in powerful waves.
  A shallow fin will have less drag in the water, providing more speed. This allows the tail of your board to move more freely. Such fins are recommended in smaller conditions.

SURFACE

• Surface area: A fin with a larger surface provides more control. This type of fin is recommended for beginners as it offers more stability. A fin with a smaller surface allows more freedom under the back foot, making the board more playful.
  Surface distribution: In hollow/fast conditions, you’d typically choose fins with a thin head and less surface at the top, reducing drag and allowing for more responsive curves. In slow-moving conditions, you’d opt for a fin with more surface at the top to enhance maneuverability.

FLEX

• The flex of a fin determines its ability to bend and return to its original shape. A fin with flex offers softer support and is more forgiving of mistakes, making it more forgiving. On the other hand, a fin with little flex, therefore more rigid, will provide more control, responsiveness, and power. It’s suited for more experienced surfers because these fins require precision in your trajectory. The deeper and thinner the fin at the tip, the more likely it is to have flex.

For the Bag, we take a bit larger than the board. First to put the board in it, then to make room for adding fins, protections, etc. Be careful, too big it smacks the roof bars and you can hang yourself after 100km; -)……. or your women will shank you at the first rest stop….;).

Day Bag or Luxe Bag? The name is an answer. The luxury is ideal for travel but takes up a lot of space in everyday life. The Day bag is great for everyday sessions. At GONG both types are very reinforced. It’s up to you to decide.

You will inevitably want to hang out on the nose, and that’s the whole point of these boards. So remember to wax the nose of your board, from the end of the deck pad to the end of the nose.

A wing quiver to add sessions on those windy days? SUP shortboard to surf differently? Switch to the SUP foil to finally surf this solitary 30 cm wave that no one is interested in but which will give you the longest waves of your life.

The time you spend on the water on one type of board will enrich your practice when on other boards. Nothing replaces experience, time at sea, variety of weather conditions, sharing with the elements and friends.