FORUM : about time and space !!!

“Hello,
After talking to people who are progressing in Surf, and others whom are starting out on a Foil, I’ve concluded that it all has to do with a relation with time and space.
I have often heard that Surfing is a sport apart because everything is in movement, where every wave is different form another. That’s false.
The exact reproduction of situations is far from perfect, but you are good from the moment when your reaction time is shorter than the time of the variation of the environment.
Once you take control and advantage over the time, you dominate the space. This action and understanding of it is key when practicing at a higher level but also for when you are in progression.
When I was a fierce competitor, I practiced and learned to read the spot at 500m. I was able to tell at that distance exactly what i was going to do on the wave when it was under me in little over a minute. According to the shadow I saw coming on the horizon, the more Southern or Westerly direction of the hump, its concentration or its spread, the distribution of the guys around me etc… I know exactly what my maneuvers were going to be this, then that, then this, then that.
What we see concerning beginners is that they suffer the environment. Everything moves and everything changes, and they feel they have not enough time to react. The relation to space and time is lost on them. They see what’s in front of them and anticipate nothing. It may be because they are so self concentrated, or to busy focusing on repeating the skilled reflexes already learned by better riders.
But it is also because they are not aware of the necessity to domineer the space/time aspect. And yes Surfing is a sport for Intellectuals. Even if it is trendy to Surf opportunistically, which involves a tenth of a second to score points, the intellectualization of the environment is the key.
To say so not in vain : it is what’s essential.
Look around you : The good ones look to the horizon, beginners are looking at their wax. It’s imperative on a Foil. You have no choice : you must look further to double the space time.
You’re moving twice as fast so it is not a surprise that you need to read twice as far within time and space.
Imagine yourself from the viewpoint of a drone. You have this image in your head. this is the image that symbolizes the speeding up of your intellect over space time. If things are moving at 1 second, analyze and react in 1/2 a second!!!!
Enjoy” Advisor : Patrice Guénolé et GONG Surfboards. Source : Team GONG Surf, share what you love to do.
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