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It's flat around here...
“Beautiful swell this afternoon: 1m20 / 1m40, + 2m in the sets. The conditions were sloppy, it was close to a winter session. But I could see some open faces, there was potential. The kind of session where normally, with my Lethal, I take 2/3 waves that are really fun, and the rest is a lot of hassle and waves that close out.
When paddling up to the peak, I already had a good feeling. It paddles super fast. On the first big set that hit, I was very surprised as it took off very early. Easy take off and great stability. On the wave it just flies underfoot. I follow the wave. I manage to step back to be on the pad before attempting a maneuver at the end of the wave (well, I didn’t stick the roller but it’s not because of the board ;)) At the end of the day, 3 hours in the water, it was just too good. During 2 hours I surfed wave after wave on the big sets. And I was able to follow / pass sections that I normally would not have been able to take. For the last hour I had no more arms. It was just an extra dose of fun 😀 Now I’ll have to train for the bottoms turns, the rollers and the cuts-backs 😀 Thanks for your advice !”