HOW TO : TAKE A WAVE !!!

Here she comes!!! Concentrated, we turn towards the lip by jibing or turning (inward if we are a little far from the peak, and outward if we are a bit late). We turn twards the good stance side. We look at the wave to perceive its surge and we take a look at the people in the water to respect the priorities. Note that Surfers always have priority over Kiters. At this precise moment you must already know what you are going to do on the wave. Your deep observation of the spot has taught you that this wave would go left or right, it would accelerate, then slow down then and that and that. These data that you confirm during surfing are fundamental to prepare your actions and finalize your investment to the nearest decimetre. Remember that surfing is an adrenaline rush. Surfing a wave lasts only a few seconds. The more you plan these seconds before starting, the more likely you are to succeed in your maneuvers. Remember that most maneuvers are to set the pace of the surfer on the wave to optimize the length of the wave. The rest is just swagger and fun. If you’re not alone, you can advertise your priority surfer status. The “hey hey ” is detestable, whistling is even worse … But to say you’re going left or right if you have the choice is well received, unless you stutter ? The worst situation after the fact is that everyone misses the wave by general misunderstanding. So quietly announce your intention. Either by a solid and determined rowing, or by a verbal announcement of the type “out of the way mofos!!”.