FORUM : your first surf session !!!

Hello, You have two big solutions to begin: Find yourself a secured spot, walk through the water with your Board next to you (never between the water and you, if not : broken nose) to get through the churn and foam. Once you’ve found a wave a bit better than the rest turn your Board towards the beach and launch yourself onto it like a seal at SeaWorld. Do not put yourself to far forward on the Board because the foam will pick the Tail up and force the nose to pearl (term used for nosedive).
Hold the rails tight and give the foam time to push you and get yourself going then do a pop up and ride her out just the beach. Find yourself a secured spot with no bigger than 30 cm waves.
Now you are going to start learning already by paddling out prone because it’s out of the question that you catch waves by throwing yourself onto the Board. Lay prone on the Board, the nose should not be sticking more than 3-5 cm out of the water (no more, no less!!). Paddle and feel the Board under your body. Push her with your body in order to guide her (torso, stomach & thighs).
The more rigid you are and arched your back is the better it will go.
Get yourself out passed the impact zone and in front of the waves, sitting face to the horizon (ocean horizon not land ;)…). Once you see a nice one coming at you, turn the Board, lay yourself down and start Paddling. (and yes, it is easier to read than it is to do). Once you have succeeded in paddling the same speed as the wave, you will feel yourself being picked up. Attention : Do not confuse the feeling of being picked up by the wave with that of descending the wave face. The descent will not happen until the wave has picked you up!!!! Do Not pop up when the wave picks you up, if you do you will go over the back of the wave. In the beginning, wait a little bit by paddling a couple more times before popping up.
And there it is, you’re surfing.” Advisor : l’Ours et GONG Surfboards. Source : Team GONG Surf, we share what we do.
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