Repair a leak with a PVC patch

Here’s how to fix a tear or a small puncture caused by hitting a rock or a blunt object with a PVC patch.

Your inflatable board has unfortunately rubbed against a rock or a shell and now has a leaking scratch. For this type of damage, your only option is to fix it using a PVC patch included in the repair kit of your inflatable board (SUP First, I-SUP, I-SURF, or HIPE).

General information on preparation and repair materials used for fixing inflatable surfboards, SUPs, or wings:

Protect yourself

Certain repairs will require the use of chemicals like adhesives or solvents, which can be aggressive to your body. To protect yourself, we recommend wearing gloves (multi-layer PET gloves), a mask with class A filters, and safety glasses. Also, make sure to carry out repairs in a ventilated space and out of direct sunlight.

Clean and prepare an area for re-gluing

Before re-gluing, it is sometimes necessary to prepare the area by removing old glue residues. On certain surfaces, such as under a pad, using Essence F may be sufficient. For areas requiring a perfectly smooth surface, the use of acetone may be necessary. MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) is an even more powerful and effective cleaning agent than acetone. In any case, these products are highly volatile and must be used with caution, especially with respiratory protection. A cartridge mask is absolutely essential, along with gloves. Isopropyl alcohol is a good alternative to MEK, being easier to find and less hazardous.

What glue should be used?

The quality of your repairs will largely depend on the materials used. A tube of glue that has been left open will no longer be very effective. To ensure a durable repair, don’t hesitate to use high-quality glue. Your board will be ready for many more years of use.

Tube PVC glue or two-component PVC adhesive?

There are different types of adhesive. For small repairs (such as gluing a pad onto a small area or attaching a patch a few cm² in size), tube PVC adhesive may be sufficient.

For more extensive repairs, two-component PVC adhesive is necessary. We recommend using SUPER MARINE PVC adhesive Vinycol 1520M2 with the Desmodur RC hardener. This is the reference we use in our workshop. Generally, for leak repairs, we recommend a two-component adhesive for a more durable fix.

The difference between these two types of adhesives lies in the concentration of hardener. The hardener in tube PVC adhesives is directly integrated into the glue, but in small quantities.

When using it, it is necessary to wait a few minutes for the solvents in the adhesive to evaporate. These solvents help limit the polymerization between the glue and the hardener, preventing an open tube from curing immediately.

In the case of a two-component adhesive, the glue and hardener are separate, so there are no solvents present. This also partly explains the much stronger bonding properties of this type of adhesive.

➔ Reference two-component adhesive: SUPER MARINE two-component PVC adhesive Vinycol 1520M2

Super glue or multi-purpose adhesive?

For a pad that is peeling off, various types of glue can be used. If the area to be re-glued is no bigger than 1 or 2 cm², super glue will work very effectively. This type of adhesive performs best on small surfaces, as the less it is applied, the more effective it is.

➔ Super glue or strong adhesive reference: LOCTITE SUPER GLUE-3 Power Gel (3g tube)

For larger surfaces that need re-gluing, a multi-purpose adhesive will be far more effective. We recommend a polymer-based glue. This type of glue is fast-drying, solvent-free, transparent, flexible, and resistant to temperature variations. Also, when the surface exceeds a few square centimeters, Patex-type adhesive will be more effective as it remains flexible compared to super glue.

Apply a thin layer of glue to one of the surfaces. Firmly press the two parts together and hold them in position for one hour (use adhesive tape to support vertical bonding). Repositionable within the first five minutes. The best final resistance is achieved when the bond is made as quickly as possible. Wait two hours before moving the glued parts. Fully dry after 24 hours.

➔ Multi-purpose adhesive reference: PATEX EXTREME REPAIR Extreme Strength (20g tube)

Repairing a leak with a PVC patch:

Material:

Soapy water / SUPER MARINE Vinycol 1520M2 two-component PVC adhesive / cartridge mask / gloves / protective glasses / paintbrush / 1 cup / wide masking tape / PVC sheet (repair kit) / medium-grit sandpaper (120-180) / ballpoint pen / isopropyl alcohol / paper towels / a pair of scissors / flat cardboard about 20cm² / roller or squeegee / new utility knife blade / stirrer.

Durage: 24h (including drying)

Process:

Inflate the board to 15 PSI.
Beforehand, make sure there is a leak using soapy water.
Use the pen to circle the leak and identify it.
Once the leak is confirmed, deflate the board and lay it on a flat surface.

Mark the repair area with a pen or wide masking tape around the scratch or small hole.
Put on gloves and the cartridge mask.
Use isopropyl alcohol or F cleaner to clean the area and degrease it.

Cut a patch with a surface larger than the hole by about 2 centimeters or the tear using the scissors (make sure to round the corners).
Position the patch over the tear and outline it with the pen. Ideally, make a line about 1 millimeter inside the patch to ensure it is hidden under the patch. This pencil line will be the guide for the area to be glued.
Gently sand both surfaces to be bonded to create a slightly textured surface, improving glue adhesion by increasing the contact area and forming micro-anchors.

Outline the area to be glued with masking tape to avoid applying glue beyond the bonding area. To do this, place the patch over the hole and surround it with masking tape (leave a millimeter or two of space). Then, remove the patch.

This step is not mandatory but highly recommended. You can also outline the area with a pencil, but you risk leaving unsightly glue marks on the board.

For easier glue application on the patch, place it on masking tape. This ensures the area to be glued is fully covered, while preventing any overflow.

Put on gloves, the cartridge mask, and protective glasses.
Use PVC glue in a tube (solution illustrated below) or two-component PVC glue.

If you are using two-component PVC glue:

In a cup, mix the PVC glue and hardener using the stir stick (following the ratios provided by the supplier).

If you are using a tube of PVC glue:

Open the glue tube using its cap, which should be inverted to pierce the nozzle. As mentioned earlier, the hardener in tube PVC glues is already integrated into the glue but in small amounts. When using it, you must wait a few minutes for the solvents in the glue to evaporate.

With a brush, apply a thin coat of PVC glue on the side of the patch that will face the board (the rougher side) and on the marked area of the board. Make sure the PVC glue extends about 1 to 2 millimeters beyond the patch (use masking tape to mark the area).

When the glue on both surfaces is "tacky" (it sticks to your finger but doesn’t remain on it), press the two surfaces together and apply strong pressure, then slowly smooth the surfaces using a squeegee or roller, starting from the center and moving outward.

Hold the pressure with a clamp and two wooden wedges, or by using a wooden block and a weight of about 5 kg. Ensure this operation is done on a perfectly flat surface.

After 12 hours of pressing and drying, perform a manual check to ensure the edges of the patch are perfectly bonded, and that the entire fixed area is also well adhered. If any area is not fully bonded, gently apply glue to both surfaces, following the previous instructions for pressing and drying times.

Let it dry for 24 hours.

The last step is to inflate the board and conduct an initial test with soapy water on the repaired area. Afterward, perform a pressure test by keeping the board inflated to 15 PSI for 24 hours. If the test is successful, it’s time to get back in the water ;-)