Lexicon surf

Backwash : water from  broken wave that’s going back out to sea. Beach Break : spot where the waves break on a sandy bottom, more random than the reef break. Duck Dive : a technique that allows the surfer to go under the waves to pass the bar by immersing the nose of his board under his body just before the wave arrives. Close out : a wave that breaks upon itself, offering no shoulder to surf on. Deck : the top, the deck of the surfboard. Right : wave breaking to the right from the point of view of the surfer who surfs it. When he is riding and looks at the beach, the wave opens to the right (foam left and shoulder to the right). Shoulder : part of the wave where the surfer can cut loose. It separates the Curl from the flat area at the end of the wave. Left : wave breaking on the left from the point of view of the surfer who surfs it. When he is riding and looks at the beach, the wave opens to the left (foam to the right and shoulder to the left). Glassy : the perfect conditions for surfing. No wind, no chop, no wind ripples: a totally smooth body of water. Goofy : The surfer stands with the right foot at the front of the board. Leash : a supple line that connects the surfer to his board. It attaches to the ankle and the leash plug located at the back of the board. Line up : offshore area where surfers are waiting for the waves. Starting point more or less defined according to the spots and the weather. Nose : the nose of the board. Offshore : wind coming off land which helps push up the wave offering good conditions. Onshore : a sea wind that flattens the waves. Breaks down conditions and creates a lot of chop. Peak : area where the wave begins to break. This is also the starting point for priority amongst surfers. We respect the rule of whose turn it is and are silent 😉 Quiver : all the boards of a surfer, with different shapes allowing him to surf in a variety of conditions. Regular : the surfer rides with the left foot at the front of the board. Series : set of waves of the same type, by extension we speak of the “series” when a group of 4/5 beautiful waves arrive. It is a regular cycle that helps to pinpoint our placement on the peak. Shape : shape of the board given by the shaper during its fabrication. Shore break : waves breaking near the shore on the sand. Tory and avoid this. Spot : where you practice surfing. Swell : the wave surge. Not to be wasted, this has traveled thousands of miles to break at your feet and release its power for you to have fun on……. Tail : back part of the board. Tube : what any surfer is looking for. The Holy Grail. The surfer is under the lip of the wave. Wipe out : a violent fall in the wave.