Pads - SUP

The question of the pad often comes down to an aesthetic choice to style your board. But what might seem like a mere gimmick to non-pros is actually a valuable aid.

If surfing is "the art of positioning," then placing your feet correctly on the board is crucial. And what better way to do that than with a sensory marker that tells you: "Okay, I’m in the sweet spot for this turn."

Forty years ago, this marker came from the natural dents forming underfoot on PU boards. But that’s a bit outdated now, isn’t it? Some like it, some don’t—it’s a personal choice.

If those dents feel a bit medieval to you, you could also wax only the sweet spots. Sounds cool, looks pro, but it's like playing roulette with your future offspring...

So, sticking good pads on your board is essential. They’ll tell your feet whether they’re in the right place or not.

But you still have to apply them correctly, and that's where things can go wrong.

The rule for the tail pad is simple: stick it right in front of the leash plug! In short, it should be as far back as possible. That’s where you’ll get the magic feel:

• Foot on the flat part of the pad for smooth turns.
• Foot on the kicker to go all out or pop for reverses.
• Foot in front of the pad for tubing.

It’s super simple.

Still a niche option five years ago, the front pad is now becoming essential with the rise of aerial maneuvers.

Where should you place it? It’s pretty straightforward since it’s long, giving you some flexibility.

Generally, the sweet spot for the front foot during turns is between the rear third and the center of the front pad. That’s because, during maneuvers, you’ll naturally move forward—either on landing or when getting barreled. However, your foot will never move behind this sweet spot—it would be unrideable.

Since you’ve already placed the tail pad, stand with your back foot centered on it, then move your front foot forward to your natural stance. Most of the time, this point aligns with the rear third of the front pad.

On a shortboard, positioning it is easy, and the same logic applies to a mid-length board. It might feel slightly further back, but that’s normal. And if needed, you can always add a second pad in front.

One last thing: pads don’t replace wax! Whether in front or at the back, wax, wax, and wax again.

1/ The one that matches the shape of your board. You can trim it with a fresh box cutter blade, but better to avoid a disaster.
2/ The one you like—because loving your board is important.

Shortboard, fish, or longboard? Which model?

Shortboard: A shortboard’s tail pad is usually quite narrow, especially around the kick tail. Like all pads, it should fit the board’s shape. The surfer’s back foot won’t move much—it will stay firmly planted on the pad.

Retro/Fish: With a retro board, you’ll mostly be making long, flowing turns, so grip is less of a priority. Some fish boards don’t even have a kick tail, as it would interfere with glide and overall flow rather than helping.

Longboard: The tail on a longboard is much wider and longer. Surfers need more freedom to move, especially for cross-stepping, so having a properly adapted tail pad is essential.

• You attach it to a new board because doing so on a board that’s already waxed is a nightmare—it’ll always stay greasy. In that case, dewax the board and clean it with F solvent to remove the grease, then wait 24 hours before scrubbing with a clean microfiber cloth and attaching the pad.
• You stick the pad on straight—it looks better that way. And you place the tail pad just in front of the leash plug, no more than 2cm ahead.
• Position the pad on the board without removing the protective films on the double-sided tape. Adjust it perfectly. If you’re unsure, mark some reference points on the board with a pencil.
• Start with the center of the pad.
  Peel off the front of the film about 5cm and fold it back.
  Place the pad again. Once it’s in the perfect spot, press down on the front to fix it in place with the adhesive on the board.
  Lift the back of the pad to remove the rest of the protective film.
  Then, stick the rest of the pad toward the back, without overstretching or twisting it.
  Press firmly because the adhesive reacts to pressure above all.
• Wrap the kicker of the tail pad with masking tape, applying pressure for 24 hours.
  Unwrap it after 24 hours, and you’re good to go!
• If any corner of the pad starts peeling off, use quick-drying gel glue underneath the pad when it’s completely dry. Don’t wait 15 days to do it—otherwise, the whole pad will come off. It’s a small maintenance step that you might need to do, for example, if your wetsuit caught on the pad a bit too roughly.

I almost forgot:

• A pad is also a great anti-slip that remains gentle on your wetsuit.
• It protects your board from impacts.
• It burns your skin.
• It saves you from waxing every 20 minutes.
• It adds value to your board for resale.
• And it seriously enhances the look of your board.

Frequent friction, salty water, sand, the sun... A pad can start to peel off, usually at the edges. It’s nothing serious if you act quickly—a drop of strong glue is enough to fix the problem.

If it’s too late, don’t worry, a pad can be removed and replaced!