Fins - Longboard Retro

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9"0 9"5 10"0 10"5 11"0

Dfeatr Single Fin - US Box

The DFEATR single fin for US boxes.

$91

10"0 10"5 11"0 11"5

Lokin Single Fin - US Box

The LOKIN single fin for US boxes.

$103

10"0 10"5 11"0 11"5

Ron D Single Fin - US Box

The RON D single fin for US boxes.

$103

9"0 9"5 10"0 10"5 11"0

Royal Single Fin - US Box

The ROYAL single fin for US boxes.

$91

9"0 9"5 10"0 10"5 11"0 11"5

Dred Single Fin - US Box

The DRED single fin for US boxes.

$91

7"5 8"0 8"5 9"0 9"5 10"0 10"5 11"0 11"5

Poster Single Fin - US Box

The POSTER single fin for US boxes.

$60

8"0 8"5 9"0 9"5

Myway Single Fin - US Box

The MYWAY single fin for US boxes.

$67

Fin US Red Honeycomb 9" 230mm

Center Fin with an incredibly versatile shape for single and 2+1 mounting.

$46

Which fin(s) should I choose for my longboard?

The fins that come with our boards are perfect for getting the most out of them. But since 50% of a board’s performance comes from the fins, you’ll likely want to adjust your fin setup based on your size, style, preferences, or simply to try something new…

Some fins enhance speed, others improve turns, boost acceleration, or provide better nose hold, etc. You’ll find detailed descriptions on their product pages.

Two main fin setups: Single and 2+1

Single fin: Between simplicity and technicality

Riding a single fin can be seen as both the simplest and most technical fin setup, depending on your approach to surfing and your personal preferences.

A single fin setup allows your board to generate speed effortlessly without having to "shift gears" like with multi-fin setups. It creates the least resistance and drag, making it the best option for those who enjoy pure, fluid gliding down the line.*

* Down the line refers to a diagonal trajectory, like an endless bottom turn in the middle of the wave that maintains a constant speed when perfectly optimized with the wave's energy and breaking pattern. It’s similar to skiing down a slope, except in surfing, the slope is short, requiring constant alternation between descending and climbing to sustain momentum—hence the expression "down the line."

However, if your goal is to make tight, aggressive turns, you'll need to be extremely precise with your positioning to stay in sync with the wave’s energy. Without side fins, you'll rely entirely on rail pressure, making single fin surfing highly technical. It demands experience and control, as gravity will be your only ally.

Single fin setups are often preferred for noseriders, where maximum glide is desired. A deep enough fin stabilizes the board’s tail high on the wave, giving surfers more time to stay on the nose.

2+1 setup

In a 2+1 setup, a larger center fin stabilizes the board and smooths out turns, while larger side fins generate more speed when carving. The key is balance—if both the center and side fins are too large, the board becomes overly stiff and difficult to maneuver.

Recommended fin sizes:

2+1 setup: Center fin between 6” and 9”
Single fin setup: Center fin between 8” and 11” (with 7” and 10” being the most common sizes)

A 2+1 setup is the most versatile option, offering a good balance between control and hold, especially when putting the board on rail.

The Thruster Setup

On performance longboards, it is possible to use a Thruster setup, just like on a shortboard, with three fins of the same size. This setup maximizes responsiveness and speed, making the board extremely lively and maneuverable. However, nose hold will be significantly reduced, which can lead to unintended 360° spins.

After the shape, fin material is the most crucial factor. Fiberglass fins are essential since stiffness is the key to high-performance fins. As you move up in quality, prioritize stiffer fins. Additionally, fiberglass fins can be easily repaired in case of damage, such as hitting a rock.

Central fin placement

In a US fin box, the central fin can be adjusted forward or backward. The further forward the fin is, the more maneuverable the board becomes—but at the cost of control. The board may feel too loose, turning more than you intend. Conversely, moving the fin backward increases stability and control, keeping the board locked in on a rail, but making it harder to turn, almost feeling sluggish.

The ideal placement comes down to centimeter-level adjustments, depending on the board shape, fin shape, wave conditions, and most importantly, your surfing style. Your weight, stance, and pressure distribution in turns can all influence the feel. Experiment with different placements to find what works best for you.

Nowadays, it’s possible to equip your board with an FCS II central fin, eliminating the need for tools to install or adjust your fin. This saves time and ensures you won’t miss a session because you forgot a tool. Another benefit is that you can adjust your fin position in the water, allowing you to test different setups during your session.

Understanding central fins

To choose the most suitable fin for your surfing style, wave conditions, and preferences, it's essential to understand how each design element affects your board’s performance.

RAKE

The rake refers to the backward curve of the fin—the distance between the base's rear edge and the fin’s tip. More rake means the tip extends closer to the tail of the board, making it ideal for experienced and powerful surfers who want long, drawn-out turns with maximum hold and drive. Drive refers to maintaining speed while holding a trajectory. A wide base helps retain speed, whereas a shorter base sacrifices some speed. Recommended for powerful waves.
Less rake (a more upright fin) increases pivot, meaning tighter turns. This is ideal for quick, sharp maneuvers in weaker waves that lack power.
Imagine steering a catamaran: with the rudders fully down, the boat turns sharply with little effort. If you tilt them at 45°, turning becomes harder and requires more force—this is the same principle as rake in fins.

BASE

The base is the bottom section of the fin that connects to the board. A longer base provides more control and stability, enabling wide, smooth turns—perfect for powerful waves where hold is crucial.
A shorter base allows for tighter turns and more tail release, making it ideal for slow, weak waves where maneuverability is key.
Long base = More control, drawn-out turns.
Short base = More pivot, quick acceleration, tighter turns.

DEPTH

Depth refers to the height of the fin from its base to the tip. A deeper fin provides stability and hold, particularly in powerful waves.

A shallower fin reduces drag, increasing speed and freeing up the tail. This makes it great for small conditions, where quick, loose turns are preferred.

SURFACE AREA

More surface area = More control and stability. Recommended for beginners as it helps maintain balance.
Less surface area = More responsiveness and playfulness under the back foot.

Surface distribution:

In hollow, fast waves, go for fins with a thin tip and less surface area to reduce drag and maintain speed through turns.
In slower waves, a wider tip increases maneuverability and responsiveness.

FLEX

Flex determines how much a fin bends and returns to its original shape.

More flex = Softer turns, more forgiving for mistakes—great for intermediate surfers.
Less flex (stiffer fins) = More control, power, and responsiveness. These require precise technique, making them better suited for experienced surfers.

A deep, narrow-tipped fin tends to have more flex, allowing for more dynamic turns.