What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

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JGONG
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What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par JGONG » jeu. mars 19, 2020 3:22 pm

Hello,

In these hard and challenging times there are better things to relax and calm your anxious mind (and body) outside of Netflix and growing callouses on your thumbs scrolling on your smartphones.

Reading fro example..... and no Comic Books don't count.... even though I have my own, and serious collection of Graphic Novels, there is nothing like words on a page and you own imagination to create another world.

I'm opening this subject to talk about Books. Not magazines or articles , but real Surf Literature. and there are good books out there with some literary genius behind them.

Many of you might know some as I know there have been several translated into French and Spanish.

This is a discussion for those who may have not read these books or have and want to talk about the content and their opinions. Today we're going to start with a real classic! Probably the first of its kind in a genre which today is respected and referred to as 'California Noir'.... and we're talking about the Low end of the art form... the real nitty gritty business.......

I first heard of Tapping the Source by Ken Nunn when I saw the Bass player for Janes Addiction, Eric Avery an avid long time Surfer himself, doing a Book Review while he was sitting on his toilet doing his business in their underground home video Soul Kiss from 1989 :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pbzia99D9t8

it starts at 6:15 minutes.

Anyone who know Janes Addiction to any degree knows that their singular and wicked music style is Surfing Psychedelia pure and simple. And at that time there was nothing in the world like it.... and really hasn't been done since. I was fortunate to see them in concert when I was 17 the same year and under some circumstances that shall not be dwelled into... but I can tell you to date... it is the single most best concert I have ever seen.

All members of the band were surfers at that time but the Lead Singer Perry Farrell and Eric Avery were the ones to turn it into a visceral part of the music. Very much California and very much Surf Spirit. I recommend a good listen to Ocean Size and the power of the riff and ocean.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVIev94s7Mo

Lyrics :


J'aimerais être de la taille de l'océan
Wish I was ocean size

Ils ne peuvent pas te déplacer
They cannot move you

Personne n'essaye
No one tries

Personne ne vous tire
No one pulls you

Sortez de votre trou
Out from your hole

Comme une dent qui me fait mal à la mâchoire ...
Like a tooth aching a jawbone...
J'ai été fait avec un coeur de pierre
I was made with a heart of stone

Être cassé
To be broken

Avec un coup dur
With one hard blow

J'ai vu l'océan
I've seen the ocean

Pause sur le rivage
Break on the shore

Réunissez-vous sans faire de mal ...
Come together with no harm done...
Ce n'est pas facile de vivre ...
It ain't easy living...
je veux être
I want to be

Aussi profond
As deep

Comme l'océan
As the ocean

Mère océan
Mother ocean
Certaines personnes me disent
Some people tell me

La maison est dans le ciel
Home is in the sky

Dans le ciel vit un espion
In the sky lives a spy

Je veux être plus comme l'océan
I want to be more like the ocean

Pas de bavardage
No talking

Toute action ...
All action...

Pas de bavardage
No talking

Toute action ...
All action...

Now the Book :

Image

'People came to Huntington Beach in search of the endless party, the ultimate high and the perfect wave. Ike Tucker came to look for his sister and for the 3 men who murdered her.
In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blondes, Ike looked into the shadows and found parties and drifted towards pointless violence, joyless violations and highs you might never come down from..... and a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad.'

That's how the book is described on the back on my 1998 copy (my first one got stolen by an ex girl-friend... I only date chicks that know the value of books..;)...)

But that is not how I see the book. It is definitely a birds eye view into the party scene and crazy life there at that time in the early 80's but it is much deeper than that. It's a real, and profound look into a young mans coming to age experience through surfing and a violence imposed upon him by a harsh world. It's also about redemption of older men who have taken the wrong path and found their way back... even if to only a small degree.

It is VERY much a good insight into the MachoMan Surf scene from back then and the Alpha Mala top Ape type of mentality........ Surf Nazis and Locales only type of human comedy/tragedy.

We're a far cry from that world now, praise be to baby Jesus who also somehow 'miraculously' walked on water as well!

The striking part of this is how well written Ike's entry into Surfing was, and this comes from a Writer who is not creating from no experience. Kem Nunn is an avid Surfer and traveler. We'll get into him and his other Books in another post. I think for anyone who remembers well their first time in the water they'll find a bit of themselves there....... that magic... the fear...... the natural feeling of being completely out of place and out of your element. Ike comes from out of the Cali dust bowl region........

Kem Nunn is not your average writer his words are well chosen and you may find yourself looking up words, which is what a good book should do to you!

There is also the world of Harleys and Bikers, whores and losers.... hardcore Hawaiian Surfers like the Black Trunks Crew or DaHui...... which at that time would put the fear of god into you if you were on their bad side. Although, as usual, it seems to be a White Mans view into the Indigenous peoples social psychology......but Kem can't help what he doesn't know personally. He does treat it realistically though with no real exaggerations.

I won't go into details for those who might not have read it but I hope you are intrigued. Have at it! I know it can be purchased as online reading, in French/Spanish or as a paperback if you're a collector.

Any of you how may know this book and like being nerdy about books then let's talk!!.......

You got the time so if you free your ass your mind will follow..... get a book....get some nice Green Tea for the detoxing benefits and get you nose deep into some pages.

I don't know about you but I sure as hell like the smell of a new book.......
Jeff Spicoli : All I need are some tasty waves, a cool buzz, and I'm fine.

Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore : Charlie don't Surf............

Shane Dorian : I Surf to get a Tan.....

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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par Oliv GONG » jeu. mars 19, 2020 4:31 pm

thank you for this historic opus Jaime. There are so many references in our surfing world that we get a little lost in it. Going back to the basics is a bit like the basics of the sport. You can do otherwise but after a while if you want to blossom you have to go back and take the time to dissect the magic moments.

I admit that at the moment we need it... moreover Disneyland is closed lol :mrgreen:
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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par coolas » jeu. mars 19, 2020 5:38 pm

On the surf books, I liked a lot the one by Gery Lopez "Surf Is Where You Find It"
The description of his ultra-poor childhood, but close to the ocean is endearing, and his writing style quite personal.
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/298 ... ou-find-it

Also, "Kong" autobio is a very good read:
Again, his childhood with a larger-than-life father is gripping
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/211 ... ing-legend

In my reading list is a cult classic, "Breath", but I haven't started it yet.
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/2176735.Breath

Kem Nunn: I have read "Tapping the source" a long time ago, loved it. I then read "Pomona Queen" of the same author
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/696449.Pomona_Queen quite good, and started "Tijuana Straits"
https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/397 ... na_Straits but never finished it. It seemed too close to the others, and I guess I felt it was becoming a bit formulaic, as his writing style is not bad, but not one of my favorites... and there are so many books.
Also I read it at the same time as "They don't dance Much" by James Ross, a bit in the same mood, but that I found much more impactful, so I guess Kem Nunn books paled a bit of the comparison. https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/3 ... James_Ross
I should try to give them another go, he has published a lot of them:
https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/138813.Kem_Nunn

Also, one must mention "The Surfer's Journal". A must read for short but well-written surf stories away from contests but full of surf culture.
https://www.surfersjournal.com/

And, not a book, but "Bustin' Down the Door" is a real nostalgia trip. I defy you not to be moved by the tears of Rabbit remembering his poor childhood, or the final sequence that I will never forget.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bustin%27_Down_the_Door
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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par JGONG » ven. mars 20, 2020 6:33 pm

Hello Coolas,

Thanks for sharing!!

I didn't expect this subject to blow up... especially in English.... most French dudes brains turn off after the first sentence....lol. And then a subject about books.... WTF are those!!??

Thanks for putting up some others for reference!... Things I have not read myself. I'm going to definitely have to get the Lopez Book..... I first found out about him later in life but when I was 12 and saw Conan the Barbarian I fell in love with him!! Didn't even know who he was at the time... took years to figure that one out........;).

I have read all Kem Nunn books and am a real big fan of the depth he creates for his characters. For sure he kinda has a similar way to weave his stories and much like Steven King you gotta love the Genre. Which I do.

I have read all his book more than 3 times but Dogs of Winter is the on I read 5 times. That story is simply magic.

Image

Image

The back says it all. A real wild ride and off the harsh coasts of Northern California. Basically on a Native American Reservation where poverty and drug use is highly prevalent. Definitely one to enjoy... more than once........


The main character has a lot of characteristics..... the ugly ones... that Miki Dora had not sure if its on purpose but I found it to be so.

A real serious thriller that could easily be adapted into a film.

Another book out here that any of you should find seriously entertaining is probably one of my favourites.

Image

Image

Very interesting book indeed as is his first one which they compared to Hunter S. Thompson and his Gonzo style of writing. But if you know anything about Mexican Geography you'll laugh your ass off when he describes certain regions that are nothing like reality and he used them when writing from his home in Montauk LI.

You can't out Gonzo the Gonzo.. but you can try...;)!

Now I will tell you all a very tasty antidote about this Writer. I used to ride with him at Ditch Plains all the time. I had a home in WaterMill for about 4 years. right before I moved to France... and I Rode Ditch Plains all the time. Saw Joel Tudor there..... butted heads with the locals.... like Weisbecker... but the second I spoke to him in Spanish and told him that Cosmic Banditos was an amazing book we got along just fine.

In fact he gave me the go ahead to transit it into Spanish for the Spain market, where I Have a good friend with an Editorial : https://www.facebook.com/dirtyworkseditorial/


But at that time the editorial was just staring up... they passed... now they regret it because that book was picked up by another editorial and selling off the racks.

Now this book I would discuss in any detail, IT NEEDS TO BE READ! But I will say one thing, if you have any American film culture or are a fan of Sean Penn (who surfed and skated as a youth and also did the voice over for the Lords Of Dogtown) then you will appreciate what happen with him.

In the book Weisbecker gets into it with Sean Penn about a Role he played in the film Fast Times at Ridgemont High in 1982, here's a memorable clip :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2NaHBV ... ex=14&t=0s

In this film Sean Penn creates a role for a Cali Surfer, and has basically set the bar for how most people have looked at surfers ever since then in America. The Piece of shit film by Texas pretty boy Matthew McConaughey embarrassed himself by producing and acting in a piece of hit film called Surfer, Dude in 2008......... And in this film he literally tried to capitalise on how America culturally views and considers surfers as mentally deficient and brains burnt by the sun stoners.

Sean Penns role of Spicoli changed the entire American Cultural view of surfers for the worst. Was it funny , oh hell yeah..... are they're surfers out there who act like that... oh hell yeah... but how many more act like that because they're in copy mode?!......

Wesibecker address it directly. Not in a good way. He blames Penn for the negative view and whiplash it created towards surfers.

What's funny is that Sean Penn loved the book..... wanted to turn it into a Movie....... one tot try and buy the Rights from Weisbecker and needless to say they didn't get along at all........So what could have been an incredible, and real movie about Surfing... and life.... just got shelved...... like so many good books.

Weisbeckers life, as you will find out in the book is very interesting, he was a writer for the 80s TV Show Miami Vice........


Back at you all in a bit!!.. Have a good weekend and stick yer nose in a BOOK!

Thanks
Jeff Spicoli : All I need are some tasty waves, a cool buzz, and I'm fine.

Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore : Charlie don't Surf............

Shane Dorian : I Surf to get a Tan.....

World Master of Customer Service in the GONG GALAXY..

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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par coolas » ven. mars 20, 2020 10:57 pm

Tnaks! You made me put "The Dogs of Winter" and "In search of Captain Zero" on my to read list, in any case!

I must say that I was driven to read English books because I love English humour and the sacarstic deadpan delivery that fits so well the language (I have read all the Terry Pratchett books). Then it was a way to practice my English, and now with the ubiquity of ebooks (I have been reading nearly only electronic books for more than 20 years), I can read some pages any time anywhere, especially useful if I wake up in the middle of the night (cats...).

But I realize that I did not read a lot of "surf culture" books. This may be because I am not really interested by the topic of a book itself, but much more by the writing style, the craftmanship of the author. For instance my favorite book is "Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell" https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/142 ... Mr_Norrell even though its subject is definitevely not one of my center of interest...
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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par MagW » dim. mars 22, 2020 10:59 am

Good inspiration thankx guys!
I will order a Kem Nunn book for sure.

Barbarian days, A surfing life
By William Finnegan
Is a nice book which I listened to on Audible. He was surfing some jewels before the crowds came, it’s like a biography from his life around the globe. Some stories give me a nice feeling of being in the waves. Big waves. . .

On Audible is also books from and about:
Nat Young
Gerry López, Every Wave counts, which I just ordered.
And others.
/Magnus
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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par JGONG » lun. mars 23, 2020 1:42 pm

coolas a écrit :
ven. mars 20, 2020 10:57 pm
Tnaks! You made me put "The Dogs of Winter" and "In search of Captain Zero" on my to read list, in any case!

I must say that I was driven to read English books because I love English humour and the sacarstic deadpan delivery that fits so well the language (I have read all the Terry Pratchett books). Then it was a way to practice my English, and now with the ubiquity of ebooks (I have been reading nearly only electronic books for more than 20 years), I can read some pages any time anywhere, especially useful if I wake up in the middle of the night (cats...).

But I realize that I did not read a lot of "surf culture" books. This may be because I am not really interested by the topic of a book itself, but much more by the writing style, the craftmanship of the author. For instance my favorite book is "Jonathan Strange & Mr Norrell" https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/142 ... Mr_Norrell even though its subject is definitevely not one of my center of interest...
Hello Colaas,

Yes we got some of the best writing for earning and enhancing your lanayge skills and humor as well!.

You might want to be needing to look into Chuck Palahniuk, and my person favourite Paul Auster!...... Auster is absolutely mind-blowing......! Of course the crass and audacity of Bukowski.......... I love Hemingway for sure..... Hunter S Thomspon and if you know him... the character that Benicio del Toro played in Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas was not a creation of his mind....... Oscar Acosta Zeta.... the Brown Buffalo.... I got al his works. He got 'Disappeared' possibly by the FBI somewhere in Mexico... never to be seen again......

Here's something you'll love.

Image


TC Boyle is right up your alley!! I'm sure of it.

I am not trying to pick just 'any' Surf Novel... I definitely have my own needs for writing style and outside info, not surfing, that I feel is important to a story.

Tijuana Straights , as far as I am concerned, is one of the best reads you could have.

And thanks for that last novel recommendation!!. Looks good. Maybe you have read Paul Suskind!? Perfume?.... That is a wicked piece of literal canvas!!


Thanks
Jeff Spicoli : All I need are some tasty waves, a cool buzz, and I'm fine.

Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore : Charlie don't Surf............

Shane Dorian : I Surf to get a Tan.....

World Master of Customer Service in the GONG GALAXY..

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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par coolas » lun. mars 23, 2020 2:25 pm

Read some Chuck Palahniuk and Suskind's Perfume, but not the others. Noted!

While we are at it, my last discovery is Martha Wells https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/8 ... rtha_Wells with her "Murderbot" short stories, intrigued by the praise of Ann Leckie https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/3 ... Ann_Leckie

And on the style, I love the minimal style of the James S.A. Corey collective duo https://www.goodreads.com/author/show/4 ... _S_A_Corey
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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par JGONG » lun. mars 23, 2020 4:23 pm

MagW a écrit :
dim. mars 22, 2020 10:59 am
Good inspiration thankx guys!
I will order a Kem Nunn book for sure.

Barbarian days, A surfing life
By William Finnegan
Is a nice book which I listened to on Audible. He was surfing some jewels before the crowds came, it’s like a biography from his life around the globe. Some stories give me a nice feeling of being in the waves. Big waves. . .

On Audible is also books from and about:
Nat Young
Gerry López, Every Wave counts, which I just ordered.
And others.
Hello Magnus! Thanks for joining our little conversation...... :D


I have the Finnegan book in English and Spanish, I like both versions.......... very interesting, very interesting life.

You might very much enjoy this book by Peter Heller :


Image

I think you'll really like that one!!

Thanks
Jeff Spicoli : All I need are some tasty waves, a cool buzz, and I'm fine.

Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore : Charlie don't Surf............

Shane Dorian : I Surf to get a Tan.....

World Master of Customer Service in the GONG GALAXY..

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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par JGONG » mar. mars 24, 2020 6:48 pm

Hello,

"The best way to cope, when you're at the end of your rope, is dangling in front of your face, imagine the taste of the glory that awaits all ahead'........ Les Claypool, The Trek.

It's true, as these days compile a sense of disparity and these days seem so perilously long....... we can to feel frustration, anxiety. The tension can build up, and for many unsupportable.

I find refuse in books and let my inner life find its joy. I now that anger and rage at the situation can and will build. Some of you even would so much rather be at work than pent up in your homes, stuck with the wife and the kids.... or all alone........and work becomes the escape.... that should not be how it is. Your home should be the escape from the world.

For those of you that feel frustrated and sometimes allow this to pass onto you daily life... and in the water there is a book I would like to share with you. Surf Rage, by the great Nat Young :

Image
Image

This is an easy book to read that gives some history and stories of situations where violence has occurred and handle in different parts of the surfing world. It mainly focuses on Australia, USA and Hawaii were tensions tend to run very high at many spots; Either because there is real danger or a very high skill level in the water with some real ego maniacs! In some cases just a Locals Only Attitude in full force. In those cases the best thing to do, unless your Bruce Lee is to save ride for another day.

much like road rage, surf rage happens when traffic is seemingly tense and there is someone not acting in accordance with the rules of the road and it escapes to the point where you feel that the only answer in resolving the issue is through violence. And all these situations are isn almost all cases augmented by stress and problems outside of the driving or surfing situation. Anger that you take onto the road with you or anger that you take into the water with you.

This book help you to recognise, feel, and resolve possible confrontations that might occur. It gives you some solid tools and verb, and even facial responses (don't forget smiling at the wrong person might get you a busted lip), that will help you avoid and calm down possible escalations into violence.

Remember a calm body = a calm mind.... Stop, Think, Act and the review the situation. All situations, even the frustration of sitting at home, like now, where things can become tense can be simmered down with some mindfulness of others.

Thanks
Jeff Spicoli : All I need are some tasty waves, a cool buzz, and I'm fine.

Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore : Charlie don't Surf............

Shane Dorian : I Surf to get a Tan.....

World Master of Customer Service in the GONG GALAXY..

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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par coolas » lun. avr. 06, 2020 8:10 am

There is the same topic opened on seabreeze, with some interesting suggestions, too:
https://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sta ... g-material

Side note: I tried to post there some of my readings, and added that they could also find Jaime valuable contribution in the Gong forum. But since for some months (since the arrival of a new, aggressive, sponsor), one cannot post any link to any Gong site there anymore (you get some "technical error" message, ha ha), I just mentionned that they could find them on the Gong forum, not mentioning any link but juste the topic name. My post was manually deleted some minutes afterwards :-). So if you post there, be warned :roll:
2019: 7'3" Fatal 105L, Alley 7'8" 105L & 8'1" 120L, Zero 9'0" 115L
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Re: What to read while we're in Confinement and Surf Culture..

Message par MagW » lun. avr. 06, 2020 9:44 am

The Gerry Lopez book has some cool stories and anecdotes. Haven’t read/listened to all of it yet, I don’t want it to end to soon. :lol:
/Magnus
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