The Surfer’s Secret to Happiness

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coolas
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The Surfer’s Secret to Happiness

Message par coolas » dim. août 11, 2019 10:11 am

Un très beau texte (en anglais) d'une écrivaine new-yorkaise, clouée en fauteuil roulant par une arthrite, et qui mourra moins de 2 ans après. Elle réussit à capter (une) essence du surf simplement en regardant les surfeurs depuis sa fenêtre...

https://www.nytimes.com/2019/08/10/opin ... iness.html
If you added up the seconds that a good surfer actually spent riding the waves, it would amount to only the smallest fraction of an entire life. Yet surfers are surfers all the time. They are surfers while they are working their crap jobs, daydreaming about surfing. They are surfers when they wake up at 4 in the morning. They are surfers when they walk the board down the hill to Bondi Beach. They are surfers when they drink their predawn espressos. They are surfers when they paddle out on their boards. They are surfers when they wait and wait for the right wave. They are surfers when they wipe out, thrashing around blindly in the waves, praying the board doesn’t crack their skulls. They are surfers when they sit by their trucks with their friends after surfing, silently eating their grain-bowl meals.

And the thing about surfers? They don’t seem to regret all that time they don’t spend standing on boards and riding waves. Not only are they surfers all the time, they are, it seems to me, happy all the time.
2019: 7'3" Fatal 105L, Alley 7'8" 105L & 8'1" 120L, Zero 9'0" 115L
2022: Mob 7'6" cool 120L, Alleys custom 7'10" 112L & 8'1" 114L
2023: Karmen custom 7'11" 118L
Surf: 9'1" XTR proto glider

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JGONG
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Re: The Surfer’s Secret to Happiness

Message par JGONG » jeu. mars 26, 2020 3:44 pm

Hello,

I somehow missed this.....! Very interesting view!..........I hope somebody doesn't steal it and change the word Surfer for Golfer. :P :P
Jeff Spicoli : All I need are some tasty waves, a cool buzz, and I'm fine.

Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore : Charlie don't Surf............

Shane Dorian : I Surf to get a Tan.....

World Master of Customer Service in the GONG GALAXY..

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