Need repair before applying rail saver?

[Vinz]

hi all,
I have some small damages on the rails of my NFA 9', caused by impact with paddle blade.
Unfortunately the Forum will not let me upload the pictures, so here they are:
https://ibb.co/QMJgLvr
https://ibb.co/pnLcrSR
Based on what I read in other threads, my impression is that they are not really serious but rather superficial - is that correct?
My actual question would be:
do I need to repair them before applying rail saver tape
or
can I just apply the rail saver and not fix it at all, since the damages will be protected anyhow?
thanks a lot in advance to whoever takes the time to help out!

[Aymeric Bar]

Hello,

Better fixing with epoxy UV ( https://www.gong-galaxy.com/produit/phi ... poxy-poly/ before applying the rail saver. You will protect even more and strongly.

In fact later on if you want to resell your board , remove the rail saver, if you do not fix before it will peel of the rail where you have the cracks.

Thank you.

[coolas]

Same as Ameyric.
Fixing with UV epoxy kits is very quick and easy.

The problem is that the clear zones on your photos are where the outer layer "delaminated", taping on it risk having all the area peel off with the rail saver.

[Vinz]

thanks so much for your kind help, I followed your advice and looked at the how-to video.
One more question: the kit and the video tutorial seems to contain much more material than I actually need (including the fiberglass, which in my case is still intact).
Could you shortly elaborate if you have time on which of the steps of the tutorial are actually necessary for this supercial dings?
thanks again

[coolas]

It is in French, but you also have a topic here: viewtopic.php?f=32&t=14699

I would advise to "invest" in some UV repair kit, as it will be quite useful in the long term.

[1] Some UV-curing resin. They already have fiberglass fibers mixed in. Solarez or DuraRezn
Gong sells the DuraRezn in many formats: complete kits ("Phix Doctor") or just resin tubes: https://www.gong-galaxy.com/produit/phi ... rfill-kit/ https://www.gong-galaxy.com/produit/phi ... dura-resn/ ...
Be careful to always take the epoxy variants, not the polyester ones.
The DuraRezn is a more modern product and should be a bit better than Solarez (especially for the shelf life)

[2] An UV lamp of the proper frequency for the resin: 385nm for Solarez, 395nm for DuraRezn
No, they are not the same!
Being able to repair at any time by any weather is a game changer.

[3] a stretchable clear tape, to tape over the repair before curing it, normally PVC. Be careful that it does not block UVs.

[4] some sandpaper to rough a bit the surface before applying the resin
A good exacto knife is very practical to cut off excess resin once hard, to only have to sand the rest.

Warning: about the video, I advise against using Q-cell with UV resins! Most Q-cells / microspheres are hollow glass balls, and glass blocks the UVs, meaning the resin will not cure. I guess they used cellulose microspheres in the video, not glass, but they are less strong and harder to find.

[Aymeric Bar]

You can use this smaller pack as your ding are small ! :

https://www.gong-galaxy.com/produit/phi ... rfill-kit/

MATERIALS:
Gloves
Sanding papers 120 / 200 / 400
Masking tape
PHIX DOCTOR type UV RESIN


Spatula (wooden ice cream stick type) to apply the resin

Sun: it will act as a hardener on the resin

or if your repair must be done indoors, you can use a UV lamp of this type:

Solarez UV lamp https://www.amazon.fr/Solarez-UV-FLASHL ... B00VE7VBHY)

Transparent plastic film to cover the resin during the drying time and have a smooth application, without relief.


STEP 1

Rinse the area to be repaired with fresh water and dry

2ND STEP

Apply masking tape around the area to be repaired

STEP 3

Sand with a coarse grain (120) for effective adhesion of the resin to the area.

STEP 4

Apply a thin film of UV resin.

ATTENTION: only on the "hole". It is better to put too little and have to repeat the pass to fill the gaps than to overflow on the paint, which will less stick and risk taking off the repair over time.

STEP 5

Smooth the resin using the wooden spatula

STEP 6

Place the transparent film on the area.


If the resin overflows, remove the film, clean the excess resin, re-film. As long as you don't expose the resin to UVs, you have plenty of time to work on it, start the repair again for a perfect finish! .

The important thing is to stretch the film well so as not to have any creases or bubbles.

STEP 7

Let dry

10 min with a UV lamp or
5 mins in the sun

CAUTION: protect the rest of the board to avoid overheating and potential delamination: cover, shade, sheet, towel

STEP 8

Remove the plastic film by pressing the repair well under your fingers to avoid pulling on it too much.


STEP 9

Sand (small grain) lightly if necessary to remove the excess resin, relief. For a perfectly smooth finish, put a little water on the area and sand. This will polish the resin and make it shiny.

[Vinz]

Thanks a lot for the very useful tips.
One dumb question: I am very hesitant to apply sand paper over the delicate Epoxy and exposed Fiberglass. Also the instructions in the kit describe the same step, but I have the impression that I am widening the damage - is that really necessary for such small dings?
thanks, regards

[coolas]

First, a warning:

Steps 4 to 6 must be done outside of any sunlight, even indirect.
E.g. being outside in the shade is not sufficient.

Glass is opaque to UV so you can work being windows (but not plastic windows like acrylic, plexiglass and polycarbonate that let UV in)

You need to remove the layers that come off easily (by hand), otherwise your repair wont last, it will fall off with it.

[Vinz]

thanks, this is very useful.
would you see any drawback if the repair is done e.g. today evening but I expose the board to sunlight tomorrow when sunlight strikes my balcony?

[coolas]

would you see any drawback if the repair is done e.g. today evening but I expose the board to sunlight tomorrow when sunlight strikes my balcony?

No, as long as you perform step 6 immediately (covering with a clear PVC tape or clear film).
Otherwise the (very thin) outer layer will not cure as it is exposed to oxygen and will stay sticky.
Not a big deal however, as it is easily removed with some alcohol.

[Vinz]

hi all
thanks for the valuable help. Yesterday I tried to repair the first small ding.
I covered the applied resin with the film from the fix-package and moved the board in a place where it could get some UV.
I applied also some tape to keep the film in place and let no air in contact with resin.
The weather was a bit cloudy so I increased the exposure time, checking every now and then whether the resin was still sticky.
After 90 minutes the resin was still sticky... after this time I had to put the board back in its dark storage (with tape and film still on).
Is it normal that after so long the resin may still not dry?
regards
Vincenzo

[coolas]

No, something is wrong. 90 minutes should OK even with clouds.
Curing is 3mn in full sunlight, about 30mn if cloudy.

Perhaps it was too cloudy?

Is the resin still soft? (pushing on it with a fingernail sinks in it)
Or is is just the surface that is sticky, but the core of it hard? In which case it is OK, just remove the sticky layer with alcohol.

[Fred GONG]

Hello,

Yes, I had the same problem not long ago, I did a repair at the end of the day, and when I took the board out, the sun went away. The resin had hardened, but it was still sticky. I put the board back in my garage, and didn't touch it for two days, and when I wanted to put the board back outside, the resin was quite dry, the light from the garage window had been enough to finish the job.

Thanks.

[coolas]

That's why the 15€ of an UV lamp is a game changer

[Vinz]

Thank you all for the valuable help.
Here are the results of my repair after taking advantage of the proper amount of sunlight. I see a very thin layer of dry resin… does it usually look much different?

https://ibb.co/5YBV8n7
https://ibb.co/vkwD6SD