HOW TO : catching a wave !!!

Here she comes!!! Concentrated, we turn the board towards land. We turn towards the good side to optimize the take off. Inward if you are a bit far from the peak, and outward if you are a bit late. The feet are used for turning. We lie perfectly on the board. Too far back you will not advance and you may pearl the nose due to being late. Put your nose flush with the water and you’ll pearl less. We look at the wave by glancing. Do not focus on it or ignore it. It’s just one or two quick glances in the rear-view mirror. We focus on paddling. We arch the back and tighten up the lower body. We paddle deep to get into the sweet spot. By this time, you must already have in mind what you are going to do on the wave. Your deep, prior observation of the spot has taught you that this wave would go left or right, where it would accelerate, where it will slow down then and then this and that and etc…. This data that you confirm while surfing is fundamental to prepare your actions and prepare your placement to the nearest decimetre. Remember that surfing is an adrenaline rush. Surfing a wave lasts only a few seconds. The more you plan these seconds before starting, the more likely you are to succeed in your maneuvers. Remember that most maneuvers are to set the pace of the surfer on the wave to optimize the length of the wave. The rest is just swagger and fun. If you’re not alone, you can advertise your priority surfer status. The “hey hey ” is detestable, whistling is even worse … But to say you’re going left or right if you have the choice is well received, unless you stutter ? The worst situation after the fact is that everyone misses the wave by general misunderstanding. So quietly announce your intention. Either by a solid and determined rowing, or by a verbal announcement of the type “out of the way mofos!!”. Surfer : Béryl and his GONG Surf 5’2 Catch EPS.