The Length :
Length limits Row effect and in effect facilitates rowing which in turn enhances the Glide and Inertia when Surfing. Under 10’ starting out gets more complex because the Board deviates at the slightest paddle effort and forces you to change hands more often. A longer Board also augments the Carving Radius in extreme conditions where the need for stalling is involved. This demands a technique that is very specific and is something learned in steps but also offers an un-comparable Glide. A Board that is shorter will offer you shorter turns, and even allows you to interrupt them creating a more Thrashy Style. It is another style of Surfing, very much in the Pocket of the wave searching for energy to burn.
A greater Length also allows you to take off on the wave earlier with less paddling effort once the Board has taken off. Henceforth it is essential to have this length when beginning.
Once having acquired a decent level this length is not a problem, even if she slows down your turns. She brings stability and allows one to ride any sized wave which a smaller Board will not allow you to do because she will be exclusive to her intended use.
The very small Boards, aka ShortSUPs, have a very low rowing speed. The equilibrium when rowing is precarious because it involves not only managing instability (Forward and behind) but also that of side to side. It is what we refer to as Balance in 3D. But when you take a good volume and width you can access these Boards without having to be a Champion. They are incredibly reactive, fun, high performance and easily transported.
The Width :
With thickness, it handles the balance and buoyancy but also the maneuverability.
In order to remain on top of it you must really have surface area and volume. The Paddle will make the length completely apparent when surfing because once you put some weight on the Paddle to lay a turn you will find the angles intensified between the water and the Board. Meaning that you will find a large portion of the Board out of water. But at the same time this width will offer you serious comfort. It is better to have too much than to little.
A Board at 27’’ is what we would call a “thin” Board. 30’’ is going to be considered “normal”. A Board at 33’’ would be considered “Large”. These are some good foundations but from there we can go in either direction and according to the needs of each user.
In effect, a thin board is going to go faster as a general rule, and it’s flagrant when paddling and the shorter the board the more flagrant. But when Surfing it’s not that simple. In fast waves a shorter Board is indispensable, but when in normal or mushy waves length will generate buoyancy hence more acceleration. The prejudice of saying length inhibits speed is unfounded in 95% of all sessions.
This reflection is identical when considering width and maneuverability. More often than not a wider Board is more maneuverable than a Gun Type Board. The width offers a larger spectrum of stance options allowing you to augment the maneuverability if you are capable of taming it.
The Outline :
The curve line on the exterior of the Board gathers the elements of length and width but the manner in which the Shaper brings these four corners of the Board together will define it.
We often use the term OFO (One Foot Off) which measures the width of 30cm from the Front and from the back. This gives us a good idea of the curve of the Outline.
But in SUP, the Paddle allows us to get the angle out of the Board, so in fact turning is made possible in a sudden motion. So, we find that the back portion of the Board is where the Rocker is at is most extreme. The consequence being a big difference between the Wide Point (max width) and the rear OFO but also a Tail that will offer a very lively Board when turning. Her turn radius will be extremely short, and the other side of the coin it will make her harder to control. A Back tier that is ‘straighter’ and ‘squared off’ will be less maneuverable when turning but have more power.
In effect, the wider the Tail is in comparison to the Wide Point the faster she will plane and accelerate quickly. They will be considered Boards that are powerful with a lot of Back Foot.
At the same time a nose that is thinned out and ‘pinched’ will be more maneuverable because there will be less Rail length in the water when turning. On the other hand, it will work much less for Noseriding and be very fast to paddle….
Make not that the Outline has a lot to do with the Row Effect, meaning a Board that has a Squared shape will have very little whereas a Round shape will spin in place.
The Thickness :
The Maximum thickness is very important. A Board with less than 4’’ of thickness will be considered a thin Board.
More important than this is the Repartitioning of this thickness in the shape. An intensely Domed Board (deck in form of a dome) will often be very maneuverable but very instable. Inversely, a Board with a flatter deck will be super stable but will demand some heavy footing from the rider.
To get an idea, know that a flat Board that has one inch less in thickness at its maximum point than a Domed Board will be just as stable, as a general rule of thumb.
Make note that the repartitioning of this thickness through the width of the Board is very important but also its repartitioning throughout the Length of the board is just as crucial.
In effect, a Board with little volume at the Tail is often very controllable and maneuverable. With excess volume, you will have a Board that is very sensitive to water movements when in the phases of waiting and while not in motion. An imbalance that is to excessive in this repartitioning of volume will be the vector of parasitic behavior and in time the Board will reveal itself in poor and erratic performance.
The Current, always present at the peak but rarely detectable while surfing, will come up on the back of the Board when it’s submerged and imbalance the Rider.
Attention ; a back end that is too thick will make for an easier and less sensitive Board but almost impossible to turn.
The Scoop :
One must be very vigilant with concern towards the Scoop (or banana) of a SUP. It is not uncommon that we see completely inefficient Scoops.
Quite often ideas start off with good intentions but then they soon drift from them. For example, it is not uncommon to see SUPs with large spatulas up front. The function, in theory, is to better pass through the waves. This is an error. Too much Scoop in the front offers more vertical surface for the wave to catch and impedes advancing. So, the Board is going to ‘bang’ against the wave.
Good ideas pushed too far often bring heavy consequences.
A Scoop should in essence be harmonious and above all in line with the rest of the parameters and liens of the Board.
The Volume :
Floatability is something we are aware of thanks to a certain Dude named Archimedes……and a Principle he so thoughtfully conceived oh so long ago.
But the Experience of SUP has shown us that we are incessantly making small mistakes that impede our Floatability. The water surface is very rarely flat as a Pool Table and each ‘defect’ or inconsistency on its surface will have an effect on our Floatability.
The Rule states that the upward buoyant force that is exerted on a body immersed in fluid, whether fully or partially submerged, is equal to the weight of the fluid that the body displaces and acts in the upward direction at the center of the mass of the displace fluid.
Meaning that in order to Float, the absolute value of the volume should be superior to the absolute volume of the rider and the Board weight.
We advise you to take a good 10 L more than the Rule for the Badasses and a good 20L more for those whom have some experience and for Beginners we recommend a minimum of 40L in excess volume.
It must be noted as well that the water coming on top of the Board (backwash) helps to stabilize it as well, also that a Larger width will erase errors. These two elements combined allows you to have minimal volume.
In brief, address those who are in the Know and passionate about what they do. Flee from commercial charlatans, the gadgets and the miracle solutions. A real Shaper has no need of such frivolry in order to sell his creations….. they speak for themselves.
Advisor : Patrice Guénolé et GONG Surfboards.
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