SUP Longboards

Noseriders SUP boards for surfing with style.

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Inherited from traditional surfboards called longboards, Noserider SUP boards take up all the codes and history of this type of surfing in its own right.

The glide of these boards is made up of two main categories, the “classic” glide and the “modern” glide.

The so-called classic glide which echoes a certain tradition, a fluid glide, all in style, without sudden movements, by alternating movements on the board, in order to spend as much time as possible at the nose of the board. These are typically so-called displacement boards that we will use, boards that slide on the water.

Modern gliding refers to moves borrowed from the shortboard, tight turns, verticality and other aerials. Basically, surfing exactly like a shortboard, but with a 9′ board under your feet. These are typically so-called planing boards that we will use in this case, boards that plane on the water.

But these two worlds are not closed by an airtight border, quite the contrary, some boards are versatile enough to offer all the possible repertoire. Others will be more specialized in a particular area. It is in this graduation that you will find the board that suits you best.

For what ?

First to exploit small waves and soft waves. The phenomenal glide of these boards allows you to take crazy pleasure in almost non-existent waves. This meets both the needs of surfers in less exposed spots, and the needs of not staying dry on the beach on days with light conditions on good spots. In short: essential.

To progress. Feeling how to place a longboard in the energy of the wave to get the most out of it is essential. Working on your balance and positioning while moving on the board is also essential. And adding the hours of surfing in addition to the beautiful days allows you to keep in shape and feel the whole of what the ocean has to offer.

Diehards know that walking, noseriding, doing a nice cutty and starting over is an incredibly satisfying music. No need to tell them about the benefits of these boards and this glide ?

The shapes of the first SUP boards were based on longboard shapes. And this is what has seduced and which still seduces a large majority of those who take up SUP: a length which allows an unequaled speed of movement, the possibility of catching a wave and surfing it without struggling. The length, the shape of these boards make them perfect SUPs for everyday use. It’s stable, easy, and you can go for a walk to alternate with surf sessions. This is the original recipe that made the success SUP.

For whom ?

It’s simple, for everyone. Because noseriders are a world of their own. From the beginner’s board to that of the hyper sharp purist, we offer the complete spectrum. First in the shapes, then in the sizes per shape since adding volume also simplifies things.

So a beginner will immediately feel comfortable because of the length which ensures a good rowing speed that’s also easy to keep in a straight line. All that remains is to choose the right width to be sufficiently stable so that the pleasure/performance ratio is ideal. A minimum width of 30” is a good benchmark for a beginner. It is a board that is self-sufficient, that is to say that you can do almost everything with a single board, walk around, learn to surf.

A confirmed SUPer will have no limits, he will just have to draw from the different styles of surfing offered. You may want length simply for glide, for comfort and ease. We can also want to focus everything on the nose ride. You can like a modern board that carves, or prefer a board with 50/50 rails for maximum glide.

Which Board?

A full-fledged surfing style borrowed from traditional surfing, each SUP longboard will have its own character. A program to choose according to your desires and the conditions you wish to exploit.

We can divide this range of boards into two parts, on the one hand the so-called “traditional” or “retro” ones, boards made almost exclusively for noseriding like the Soul and the Never Stick. And on the other, the so-called “new school” boards like the NFA and the Zero which will combine both noseriding skills, but also the possibility of surfing them like a shortboard, with aggressive handling and super tight turns.

Depending on the type of waves, each retro noserider in the range will or will not agree with your desires and with the waves. A Never Stick in fast waves is nonsense for example but will be an absolute truth in a soft and slow wave.

The modern Stand Up Paddle boards : NFA and Zero


The NFA is the most versatile. Both in the tricks because it has a tail that planes fast that allows you to crush a roller, maintain speed or even accelerate from the tail. It is an excellent board for learning Stand Up Paddle, but it is also and above all a board with infinite possibilities. From your very first take off, to the most technical moves like 360°s.

NFA FSP2X: available in 5 sizes. (8’0, 9’0, 9’0XL, 10’0 et 10’0XL)
NFA FSP PRO: available in 8 sizes. (8’0, 9’0XS, 9’0, 9’0XL, 10’0XS, 10’0, 10’0XL and 12’0)

  • The XS models are perfect for light builds and confirmed levels.
  • The classic models are among GONG’s best sellers.
  • The XL models have been created to facilitate the transition from an inflatable model to a rigid board, or for large riders looking for comfort.

A high-performance board that facilitates access to SUP in all conditions, whatever your level, your size, you will inevitably find an NFA that speaks to you.

  • The 8’0 is perfect for the super advanced rider who only wants one board, a compact model, to ride small to medium waves. The glide of a longboard, the maneuverability and size of a shortboard.
  • The 9’0 XS is aimed at lighter riders and a heavier skilled SUP rider.
  • The 9’0 is the reference size, very versatile, a real longboard character.
  • The 9’0 XL is both stable and very manoeuvrable, perfect for taller riders, or riders looking for stability.
  • The 10’0 XS allows you to have the advantages of 10’0, while being fast and incisive.
  • The 10’0 is perfect for surfing knee to shoulder size waves. Easy and early take off, excellent nose hold. An ideal size to mix surfing and riding.
  • The 10′0 XL is ultra stable and reassuring, but retains its modern longboard program.
  • The NFA 12’ for lovers of big boards, all in glide and curves, anode course an indecent rowing speed.

A hight performance board that facilitates access to SUP in all conditions, whatever your level, your size, you will inevitably find an NFA that speaks to you.


The Zero is the most radical, it is simply has the behavior of a shortboard, but with the length of a longboard. A thin and fast tail that focuses on maneuverability. Its nose is the least buoyant of the range, but it is also what allows more radicality by having less swing, that is to say less weight at the front of the board. It is a board that likes hollow and fast waves to fully express itself. You will be able to surf it from a hip size to two man sizes and more, the only limit is you!

ZERO FSP PRO: available in 4 sizes from 8’5 to 12’.

  • The 8’5 is perfect for those looking for the maneuverability of a SUP short, combined with the glide of a longboard thanks to its taut rocker.
  • The 9’0 is the reference, versatile and without limits, a best-seller !
  • The 10’0 for all those who want an ultra early entry into the wave.
  • Tthe 12’0 for lovers of big boards, all in glide and curves, and of course an indecent rowing speed !

The nose riders Stand Up Paddle boards : SOUL and NEVER STICK

Contrary or almost Soul and Never Stick are boards targeted on a type of surfing. It’s about betting everything on the noserides. So as soon as you back up on these boards they decelerate, a kind of automatic brake (stall). Because the problem in noseriding is very often to go too fast, because if you double the wave you end up on your shoulder and you have to back up. It is therefore necessary that a pure noserider automatically sets its speed on that of the breaking of the wave to stick you in the pocket sideways. Both of these boards have a pronounced non-planing or semi-planing tail rocker.

Soul 9’4

The Soul 9’4 has the same type of tail as the Never Stick but a narrower nose which gives less lift but a more manageable ride at higher speeds or in deeper sections. It’s one of those boards where the nose hold is both easy and flawless even in low power waves. You can stay at the nose for a long time without having to go backwards. And once at the nose, it accelerates. You don’t need to be a longboarder to enjoy this shape, simply being a fan of riding is enough to enjoy it.

Never Stick 9’8

The Never Stick 9’8 has a wide, very buoyant nose. Even at very low speeds or in the foam it maintains glide. It also has a very wide tail whose purpose is identical to that of a spoiler at the rear of a racing car: to press the tail downwards. When you are in the nose, this tail pulls the back of the board down and therefore lifts the nose higher. This allows you to stay on top of the wave and hold the nose for as long as possible. It excels in small, long waves that are perfect for its shape.

What techno?

We currently offer two technologies for our rigid SUP boards, FSP 2X and FSP Pro. The advantage of these two technologies is to offer a hull in full PVC sandwich. This extremely rigid, hydrophobic and solid shell surrounds the entire surface of the board.


These boards are equipped with innovative technology for the best weight / solidity / performance compromise on the market. The addition of a biaxial fiberglass in addition to the PVC, greatly strengthens the board. It is by designing a new finishing technique, as close as possible to our prototypes made in our French factory that we have succeeded in saving weight. We work with tinted resins to avoid as much as possible the paint which loads the board unnecessarily. Dyed in the mass, your board gains in nobility and durability.


Developed in our French workshop, the FSP Pro techno is just as solid as the FSP 2X techno. The addition of carbon allows this technology to save weight and dynamism. Perfect for advanced surfers looking for the best performance without compromise.

In short: FSP2X for beginners to experienced surfers and FSP Pro for the pros and the most demanding.

What leash?

We are here in the longboard world, so in a world where moving around the board is part of the game. The central area of ​​these boards is a transition area. You go there either to go to the tail and drive your board from behind, to turn. Either to rush forward (in cross steps please!) to hold the nose with your toes. You will therefore understand that to facilitate these movements and avoid getting tangled in the cord, a knee leash is therefore essential.

We usually use a leash which is the length of the board or just below. For example a 9’ leash on a 9’2. Indeed, the lengths announced are those of the cord, with which must be added the fasteners. And the leash stretches under tension, so we have room before the board in the nose.

The diameter is also an important point: yes we go faster but we risk breaking it in an overhead wave. And at the end of the leash, with a noserider, don’t forget that there is volume, so a leash with a rope diameter of 7mm is the most common.

What paddle?

You have the choice between an adjustable paddle or what is referred to as a custom-made fixed paddle. If you opt for an adjustable paddle, it is generally because you are a beginner, that you alternate with a few sessions of walks in addition to surfing, or that your board is shared in co-ownership. And in this case, an adjustable paddle can have its interest.

A custom made paddle will be more beneficial if you are more in the water to surf and you know the size of paddle that fits you well, usually this will be very close to your own size. A fixed paddle will be lighter, its flex will be evenly distributed along the shaft.

In surfing, we will use a paddle to size or even a little more. On a large board like the NFA 12′ you can use a paddle at + 10 cm, if on the contrary you are aiming for more aggressive surfing on a Zero 9′ for example, a paddle at your size will be much more suitable. Hand changes are faster, and remember that the radius of your turns is partly determined by the length of your paddle.

What fins?

The fins delivered with our boards are perfect for exploiting them correctly. But when you know that 50% of a board’s performance comes from the fins, you will necessarily want to adjust the set of fins to your size, your style, your tastes, or quite simply to test new things…

Some fins promote speed, others turns, others acceleration, others nose hold, etc. There are full descriptions on their own product sheets. A good read by the fire 😉

We will find on these boards two main types of fin set-up, single and 2+1:

Single fin, between simplicity and technicality

A single fin can be considered the simplest but also the most technical set-up to surf. It all depends on how you surf and on individual intentions.

The single fin set-up is the one that allows you to give speed to your board without having to change gears, sort of speak. Because it is the set-up that opposes the least resistance and drag. If you like to slide as “simply” as possible down-the-line*, this will be the most efficient fin set-up.

*Which has to be understood by a diagonal trajectory, kind of an infinite bottom turn at mid-wave height which allows to maintain a movement at a constant speed if this trajectory and its placement is perfectly optimized in relation to the energy of the wave. It’s exactly the same reasoning as going down a ski slope, but in the case of surfing, this slope is going to be very short, and to go down indefinitely, you will have to constantly alternate downhill and uphill, or find the perfect line which will maintain this balance which will allow the surfer to maintain this inertia, the famous expression: “down the line”.

On the other hand, if your goal is to tighten your turns as much as possible, you will need to be particularly precise in your trajectories in order to always be well placed in relation to the energy of the wave, and to have a strong stance in order to maintain maximum pressure on your rails since the absence of side fins. It is in this context that we can highlight the fact that surfing with a single fin can be technical, and will call on the experience of the surfer, because your only ally will be gravity.

A single fin set-up is often favored on noseriders, boards on which maximum glide is sought. A sufficiently deep fin allows you to stabilize the tail of your board well at the top of the wave, thus leaving a maximum of time to stay on the nose of the board.

The 2+1 assembly

A 2+1 fin set-up means your board is set with two small side fins and a large central fin. It is very common on mid-lengths or longboards because it offers an excellent compromise between the maneuverability of a thruster and the stability of a single fin (to say it simply). You can fine-tune this balance by adjusting the position of the center fin as explained below.

Fine tune your 2+1 set-up

While the small side fins are fixed in their boxes, the central fin can be adjusted along its US box. Although the rail of this standard box offers a rather wide range of possible adjustments, 2 cm is all you need to perfectly set your central fin.

Indeed, the base of the leading edge of a central fin on a 2+1 fin set-up must be between 0 and 2 cm away from the tips of the side fins. So you need to check the position of the central fin in relation to these tips, with a slat or a stretched line.

By setting a 0 cm spacing, you favor handling. At 2 cm, as illustrated above, you favor stability for a smoother style of ride. To fully understand this setting, imagine that it is the wheelbase of a skateboard. By reducing the gap between the front and rear wheels we obtain a very lively skateboard that can turn on the spot. To cruise on a downhill skateboard, you use a significantly larger wheelbase to gain stability.

If you mount larger side fins with more setback tips, you will also need to move your central fin back. The rule always applies.

For 2+1 set-up, a bigger central fin stabilizes the board and lengthens the turns. Larger lateral fins boost cornering speed. We lengthen some and not the others, they are communicating vases: a large central fin with large side fins is too much, your board will be unmanageable.

  • The size of US central fins: 6″ to 9” in 2+1 set-up and 8″ to 11″ in single fin set-up (7″ and 10″ being the references for each fin set-up).

The 2+1 fin set-up is the one that will bring the most versatility to the board, in this case we will seek to optimize control and grip once the board is on the rail.

The Thruster

It is possible on performance oriented longboards to mount a Thruster fin set-up, as on a shortboard, with three fins of the same size. We will thus seek to have a maximum of liveliness and speed. The board will then be very lively and maneuverable, but the grip on the nose will be considerably reduced, which will inevitably lead to a 360° departure. This set-up is only for shapes like the Zero 8’5 and 9’, and for experienced surfers. Because with a smaller central fin, switching from one rail to another is less fluid, more brutal, which will require more energy on your legs.

The material of the fins is after the shape the most important point: you need fibers. Rigidity is the key to good fins. If you go upmarket, go up in rigidity. And note that fiber fins are easily repairable in the event of an impact with a stone, for example.

The placement of the center fin

On an US rail, it is possible to adjust the fin forwards or backwards. The more the fin is advanced, the more the board is maneuverable, but at the expense of control. The board becomes “goofy” and will turn more than you want. The further back the fin is, the less maneuverable the board will be, but the more control you gain. The board is on a rail, very wedged, but more difficult to turn, almost asleep.

The right adjustment is decided to the nearest centimeter depending on the shape of the board, the shape of the fin, but also the conditions and above all your surfing style! Your size, your stance, and your weight transfer in curves can change everything. So do not hesitate to test different settings until you find the one that suits you.

It is now possible to equip your board with a central FCS II fin, so as not to have to use tools to fix your fin. This is a significant time saver, and without the risk of missing a session if you forget a tool. Another advantage is that it becomes possible to adjust the setting in the water during the session, to test different configurations.

Understanding central fins

To choose the most suitable fin for your surf, the conditions, and your style, you must understand how each of the following parameters, which constitutes the shape of each fin, will influence the behavior of the board.


  • The rake refers to the back curvature of the fin. This is the distance between the end of the base and the end of the trailing edge of the fin (tip). The greater the rake, the closer the tip of the fin will be to the tail of your board. Ideal for experienced and powerful surfers to perform long turns, with maximum grip and drive. The drive corresponds to the ability to hold a trajectory while maintaining speed. A fin with a wide base will help maintain this speed, while a fin with a shorter base will offer less drive. Recommended for rather powerful waves.
  • Conversely, the less rake there is (straighter fin), the greater the pivot. The pivot being the ability to make more or less tight turns. Ideal for tightening curves and turning short, therefore ideal for exploiting waves that lack power.
  • Imagine yourself at the helm of a catamaran with the rudders down, the boat will turn short and you will only need a little pressure to operate the rudders. But raise these rudders by applying a 45° angle to them, in this case it will be difficult to turn it short, and it will require a lot more power.


  • The base is the lower part of the fin. The one that is in contact with the board. A long base will bring more control and ample curves. Ideal in powerful waves on which we will seek more hold, and more stability in curves and trajectories.
  • A short base will provide more pivot and allow you to tighten your turns and free up the tail. We will choose this type of fins in slow waves because we will favor maneuverability over control. The longer the base, the more the fin will offer control and ample turns, the shorter the base, the more the fin will offer pivot, max speed and tight turns.


  • The depth is the height between the base and the tip of your fin. The deeper it is, the more stability and hold you will gain, especially in powerful waves.
  • A short fin will have less friction with the water, which will bring you more speed. This low depth of your fin will free up the tail of your board all the more. This type of fin is recommended in light conditions.


  • The surface, a fin with a large surface will bring more control. This type of fin is recommended for beginners because it also provides more stability. A fin with little surface will provide more freedom under the back foot. The board will be more playful.
  • Distribution of the surface: In hollow / fast conditions, we will rather choose fins with a thin head with little surface at the head which will foil less and therefore less accentuate the curves. In conditions in which the movement will be slow, we will choose surface on the head to accentuate the maneuverability.


  • The flex of a fin determines its ability to deform and return to its original shape. A fin that has flex provides a smoother ride and will forgive mistakes. On the other hand, a fin with little flex, therefore more rigid, will bring more control, more reactivity and more power. Reserved for the most experienced surfers because these fins require the surfer to be very precise in his turns. The deeper and thinner a fin is in the head, the more flex you’ll have.

Understanding FCS Fins

The longer the base, the more the fin will offer control and ample turns, the shorter the base, the more the fin will offer pivot, top speed and tight turns. In hollow / fast conditions, we will rather choose fins with a thin head which will foil less and therefore less accentuate the curves. In conditions in which the surf will be slow, we will choose surface at the head to accentuate the maneuverability.

Some examples

  • The Pivot has a base with little length and little rake, so very good ability to pivot on the spot. This fin is all about maneuverability. We can turn on the spot without blocking at the top of the wave for example. At high speed it will be less stable, a lot looser feel. So it’s a fin to choose for rather slow waves and/or a surfer who wants liveliness without having to reduce the depth of the fin.
  • The Connect has a fairly neutral profile, as much base length as the Clique, but more surface area at the head, to be chosen for its versatility, its roundness in the curves, its very balanced, very progressive handling. A very effective fin that doesn’t flinch. Great for progressing or playing it safe at high level.
  • The Clique has a rather tapered shape, thin in the head, and a medium/wide base, so priority is given to maneuverability, speed and control. Only to be used for rather powerful conditions or a dynamic and aggressive surfer oriented towards performance.
  • The Flow has a wide base and a thin head which gives it drive, control, and speed. Program is large curves, directional stability and gaining speed out of turns. Perfect for chilled surfing and a smooth glide.
  • The Whip is the closest to the Flow, but with an even more pronounced character. At equal size, its base is longer, the rack is larger, and its head is thinner. This low surface area in the head gives it flex, and it is also what makes this fin pleasant in bumpy conditions. It is an ideal fin on long waves, it offers drive, speed, and beautiful, wide curves.
  • The Fat boy is a rather particular and technical fin, with the surface at the head and little basic length which makes it possible to strongly accentuate the rocking on the rail in the curves, but that requires control and anticipation because the surprise is never far. A good surfer will know how to use it to ride with style.
  • The Hatchet is 100% dedicated to noseriding, a wide base that gives it a lot of drive, but above all a lot of surface from the base to its head. It is a fairly thick, slow, unwieldy fin that has only one goal: to allow you to go for infinite nose rides without skidding. We stall on the wave, we run to the nose, we stay there, and we back up for a big stylish cut back stall.

What cover?

For the Bag, we take a bit larger than the board. First to put the board in it, then to make room for adding fins, protections, etc. Be careful, too big it smacks the roof bars and you can hang yourself after 100km; -)……. or your women will shank you at the first rest stop….;).

Day Bag or Luxe Bag? The name is an answer. The luxury is ideal for travel but takes up a lot of space in everyday life. The Day bag is great for everyday sessions.
At GONG both types are very reinforced. It’s up to you to decide.

And wax?

You will inevitably want to hang out on the nose, and that’s the whole point of these boards. So remember to wax the nose of your board, from the end of the deck pad to the end of the nose.

What Quiver?

A wing quiver to add sessions on those windy days?
SUP shortboard to surf differently? Switch to the SUP foil to finally surf this solitary 30 cm wave that no one is interested in but which will give you the longest waves of your life.

The time you spend on the water on one type of board will enrich your practice when on other boards. Nothing replaces experience, time at sea, variety of weather conditions, sharing with the elements and friends.